Won't start after cam install

**Bedwards** · 06-22-2011

Originally Posted by TheOtherNick

yeah, but I dont see how you bent every push rod.

I probably tried starting it like 20-25 times in total...

**TheOtherNick** · 06-22-2011

Having the balancer on wrong wont bend a push rod.

**Bedwards** · 06-22-2011

I thought if the balancer was not on correctly, ignition timing would be off. Incorrect ignition timing couldn't cause this? I've read that it can? Hmmm.

**TheOtherNick** · 06-22-2011

Ive never seen ignition timing bend push rods on an engine that wasnt running high rpm.

**Bedwards** · 06-22-2011

I guess I'll have to pull the heads tomorrow and look... Ugh I'm tired of this.

**brandonl2000** · 06-22-2011

it's better to know the problem then guess at it. i'm glad you found your problem. i look forward to seeing you fix it, i know you can do it, just keep going! it'll be worth it

**torq455** · 06-22-2011

I still think the timing marks are off by 180 degrees

**BillBoost37** · 06-23-2011

Originally Posted by torq455

I still think the timing marks are off by 180 degrees

Explain how that's possible on our motors please. Because I'm not aware of it being possible.

When you line up the cam and balance shaft, then line up the cam and crank. The cam to crank is what's important. That's what keeps the pistons from hitting the valves. This isn't a distributor motor where you can have anything 180 off if the dots line up. The HB has a key and that tells the pcm when to fire a cylinder. But I've never seen ignition timing bend rods either.

The pistons are going to have marks or be cracked in this motor. Head pulling needs to happen IMO.

Sorry B.. I don't understand how this could happen if the marks on the cam and crank were always lined up. Do you have a picture that you can post/repost of the marks lining up?

**Bedwards** · 06-23-2011

There isn't any possibility the timing of the crank/cam are off. The marks are perfectly lined up (always have been) and I mean, the car was running. It was just making a frequent tapping noise. Maybe the balancer problem did cause this. The motor did feel like it's binding as it tried to turn over. I don't understand.

**BillBoost37** · 06-23-2011

Any others showing the cam and crank gears sitting well on the keys? You know how the balancer created another groove, on teh cam and crank it's possible for them to flatten out or do other things with the key falling out or what not. That's my next concern, but you went back in and took that off, didn't you?

**Bedwards** · 06-23-2011

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Any others showing the cam and crank gears sitting well on the keys? You know how the balancer created another groove, on teh cam and crank it's possible for them to flatten out or do other things with the key falling out or what not. That's my next concern, but you went back in and took that off, didn't you?

I took them off after the balancer problem, and the keyways were good. Lined them up and then put them back on correctly.

**BillBoost37** · 06-23-2011

And at that time there was no noise right? Noise started after that reassmbly?

**Bedwards** · 06-23-2011

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

And at that time there was no noise right? Noise started after that reassmbly?

I can't remember. It never started. But from what I remember, it did sound like something was binding when I turned the motor over by hand. I'm pretty sure that was before reassembly as well.

**Scottydoggs** · 06-23-2011

any way that because the lifters were not soaked over night or at all in this case, the valves were over tightened, and bent push rods was the result?

**BillBoost37** · 06-23-2011

Our valves aren't adjustable. If you overtorque the rocker bolts, the only issue you might have is a broken bolt.

Lifters would clack and then fill up in 3-5 minutes of running. I've used lots of Jy motors that sat around in various applications and they are dry too.

While it's possible that the lifters etc may have done it.. I would think it's highly unlilely.

**Bedwards** · 06-23-2011

So should I pull the heads? Or just assemble the valve train and try turn it over by hand?

**bowersk** · 06-23-2011

Hey man, just installed the vs cam and was having the same problem. Ended up being multiple things. Vaccum routed wrong (because I was using a supercharger with no vaccum tree port, weak battery that was not turning over the engine strong enough thus making the engine reverse and spit out out of the throttle body and a bad cam position sensor and wire. Make sure the wires to your cam position sensor got tucked out of the way and are not rubbing on the crank pulley. That is what was keeping my injectors from firing.

**Bedwards** · 06-23-2011

Originally Posted by bowersk

Hey man, just installed the vs cam and was having the same problem. Ended up being multiple things. Vaccum routed wrong (because I was using a supercharger with no vaccum tree port, weak battery that was not turning over the engine strong enough thus making the engine reverse and spit out out of the throttle body and a bad cam position sensor and wire. Make sure the wires to your cam position sensor got tucked out of the way and are not rubbing on the crank pulley. That is what was keeping my injectors from firing.

I fixed the original no-start problem. It was the harmonic balancer pulley being put on wrong. My car is running, it was firing all the injectors. The cam sensor wires are tucked in behind the balancer, and I have no DTC codes.

**kevins** · 06-23-2011

You need to pull the heads and inspect the valves/pistons. Something had to hit to break a pushrod. That probably was the hard spot you were feeling. In all honesty i would pull the cam out as well and check the lobes/bearing journals. Maybe the cam locked up or broke? I've never seen a properly timed engine do that unless the cam was broke but that is unlikely. I dont think a wrong firing order could cause this.