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06-08-2011
All I'm saying is you can get them new with free shipping so why spend $65-$70 then the seller want's $20-$25 shipping. $70 shipped for used headlights is all I'd pay for 2 months old or not headlights period....
So if you want to sell them for that let me know then I'll knock a retrofit out on them and make them worth something...
06-08-2011
If I like this Retro enough I may do that myself. :-)Originally Posted by cleangtp
All I'm saying is you can get them new with free shipping so why spend $65-$70 then the seller want's $20-$25 shipping. $70 shipped for used headlights is all I'd pay for 2 months old or not headlights period....
So if you want to sell them for that let me know then I'll knock a retrofit out on them and make them worth something...
Received the TYC lenses today. Good quality and I heard they have little after market bounce.
Anyone have wiring diagrams for the Morimoto kits? Lots of info on the mounting, but I can't find anything about the wiring for corner lights and highs.
Will be painting shrouds soon, pics forthcoming. Gatling gun shrouds, anodized red.
06-10-2011
Mine is turning out borderline disastrous. After taking the headlights comletely apart, the reflector "layer" (for lack of a better word) just keeps breaking. It's that piece of **** like plastic ceramic-y material. Broken twice on me. Once in a line seperating the high and low beam reflector bowls.
Also what's the best way to mount these *****es? Should I just epoxy these things in place?
06-10-2011
JB Weld the reflector back together. Put foil tape on the back with a layer of JB Weld and it'll be strong as hell when it dries. You'll need to sand it all down and paint the reflector to hide it though. Happened to me, I'll post pics later.
06-13-2011
Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
Last edited by laferri2; 06-13-2011 at 10:00 PM.
06-14-2011
You just wire the solenoid wires to the highbeam wires.Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
06-14-2011
Matt at TRS told me the solenoid wires are not the correct gauge to power the high-beams, and with the TRS 9006 relay harness there is no output for the solenoid, so again no power source.
The TRS 9006 harness has only 2 (real) outputs, for the ballasts, and only one input, for one half of the stock harness aside from the ground and battery connector.
Again, I think I'm missing something stupid and obvious.
06-14-2011
Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
You stole my idea bro! Lol, just playin'. I'm in the middle of my retrofit and I did the Gatling 2.0 shroud. I just painted my cutoff red too today. And baked and took apart the housing. But I didn't sand my shrouds though, just cleaned and put the metalcast over it. I'll post up pics when I get mine done.
06-15-2011
There's my latest shroud combination. Took me a pretty long time to get them where I wanted.
06-14-2011
What I did was soldered a 9005 connector to the end of the solenoid wires and just plugged them in. Worked fine for me. This second time around, I'm keeping the stock high beam while also using the solenoid for the bixenon feature. So splice the black solenoid wire with the black wire on the car, and the red wire with the whatever the positive wire color is on the car. I would advise against using the pigtails they send to splice into the high beam wires. They are crap and the first time or two you plug/unplug them, they will come apart. Mine did anyway.
06-14-2011
I think I figured it out, and I'm pretty dumb if what I am thinking is true.
Does the relay harness 9006 input plug into the stock harness 9006 output, leaving the 9005 high and sidemarker still powered in circuit? This whole time I thought it connected behind the harness and took all the power, basically bypassing all stock wirng.
If so, this explains why I'm so confused...this is a nonexistent problem.
I'm thinking of using posi-locks/taps for my taps.
Also, metalcast paints apparently cure for quite some time. The red on the projectors is awesome.
06-14-2011
Yep.
06-14-2011
Thanks; my whole wiring diagram just fell into place. Awesome.
06-19-2011
it wont give off any fumes..... they dont get hot enough to make a smell
09-05-2011
are there any places or people that will do these retrofits if "said customer" buys the parts and ships them to the person who will make them...im not the best handyman but the $1000 dollar estimate seems a bit high for professionals to do it...i can install the ballasts and hid kit myself, but as for retrofitting the projector kits...uhh, i don't wanna know how many pairs of headlights i'd end up going through
09-06-2011
^ google lightwerks but it's going to cost you a arm and a leg and big thing is there is no guarantee cutoff would be straight since a) most of them wont actually have a grand prix. b) retrofittng requires most of the adj to be set while on the car before they are sealed,
09-06-2011
Alright I already have so I wait to see what the damage comes out to...thanks for the reply though...
09-06-2011
Litewerks will cost you your whole wallet and your left nut....
09-06-2011
any other retrofitters for 04+ you would recommend ?
09-06-2011
Yeah we need someone...were stuck with screwing up our own project, spending more money than we want, or buying terrible fog lamp type projectors housings...if nothing else I'm thinking throwing my wallet at it...I'm not looking for just aesthetics...I work an early morning shift and while the headlamps are ok and I'm running hir bulbs, they aren't what a great projector setup can be
Last edited by Carlton; 09-06-2011 at 02:43 PM.
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