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06-10-2011
JB Weld the reflector back together. Put foil tape on the back with a layer of JB Weld and it'll be strong as hell when it dries. You'll need to sand it all down and paint the reflector to hide it though. Happened to me, I'll post pics later.Originally Posted by Koniig
06-13-2011
Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
Last edited by laferri2; 06-13-2011 at 10:00 PM.
06-14-2011
You just wire the solenoid wires to the highbeam wires.Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
06-14-2011
Matt at TRS told me the solenoid wires are not the correct gauge to power the high-beams, and with the TRS 9006 relay harness there is no output for the solenoid, so again no power source.
The TRS 9006 harness has only 2 (real) outputs, for the ballasts, and only one input, for one half of the stock harness aside from the ground and battery connector.
Again, I think I'm missing something stupid and obvious.
06-14-2011
Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
You stole my idea bro! Lol, just playin'. I'm in the middle of my retrofit and I did the Gatling 2.0 shroud. I just painted my cutoff red too today. And baked and took apart the housing. But I didn't sand my shrouds though, just cleaned and put the metalcast over it. I'll post up pics when I get mine done.
06-15-2011
There's my latest shroud combination. Took me a pretty long time to get them where I wanted.
06-18-2011
Man, TYC headlights are a ***** to open. They didn't use butyl tape, it's like a black adhesive liquid. I melt it with the heat gun and it immediately oozes back together around my flat head and reseals. I broke all the tabs and scratched the hell out of the lens around the seal.
5 hours of work on ONE headlight, and I probably won't get it open until after another half hour.
06-18-2011
First of you shouldn't be using a heat gun to seperate lenses from capsules. Sure it works but by the time you get one area melted enough to seperate and move on the area you just worked on like you've already said adheres itself back together. Put them in the oven the whole lense sealant melts uniformly, just my opinion though you can do whatever you want but it takes me about 15 minutes max to peel lenses using my method.
06-19-2011
I can't use my oven; I have a bird and the fumes would likely kill it. My BBQ runs way too hot and would melt it, so I'm kind of stuck.
On the plus side, the next lens should only take maybe a third of the time; I was attempting to use the heat gun to melt a whole side at once, which wasn't working. I started melting and prying five inch sections and holding until they cooled and it went much faster. I spent two hours on the first lens allowing the glue to melt and reseal and it basically turned into a rock hard gloppy mess.
I'm not so worried about the broken tabs as I'm going to use butyl tap and run a bead of adhesive sealant along the lens when I'm done, which should make it watertight and well sealed.
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