You can get a pair of brand new oem style headlights for $70ish with headlight brackets at...... Rockauto, amazon, ebay, pretty much anywhere....:DQuote:
Originally Posted by laferri2
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You can get a pair of brand new oem style headlights for $70ish with headlight brackets at...... Rockauto, amazon, ebay, pretty much anywhere....:DQuote:
Originally Posted by laferri2
04+ doesn't have headlight brackets. And It's not often you find a pair for less than $100 unless someone is being very generous on ebay and selling them used and in bad shape. However, asking to break even for the price of new headlights on used headlights is too much I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by cleangtp
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoore4294
True that, once again my mind was indulged into thinking we were talking about 97-03 housings my apology. That's why I wasn't sure on how he was going to break even or get close to $100 for the lights. Good luck on the sale when you do sale them......
Orly?Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoore4294
2004-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix Headlight Pair | eBay
This is what I've bought before and will probably buy again.
Also Aftermarket lights > OEM for retrofits only because the glue is easier to break apart on the aftermarkets
$6 dollars less? Come on Drunkie. :th_laugh-lol2:
You said used for $100 or less. These be brand new! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by jmoore4294
All I'm saying is you can get them new with free shipping so why spend $65-$70 then the seller want's $20-$25 shipping. $70 shipped for used headlights is all I'd pay for 2 months old or not headlights period....
So if you want to sell them for that let me know then I'll knock a retrofit out on them and make them worth something...:D
If I like this Retro enough I may do that myself. :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by cleangtp
Received the TYC lenses today. Good quality and I heard they have little after market bounce.
Anyone have wiring diagrams for the Morimoto kits? Lots of info on the mounting, but I can't find anything about the wiring for corner lights and highs.
Will be painting shrouds soon, pics forthcoming. Gatling gun shrouds, anodized red.
Mine is turning out borderline disastrous. After taking the headlights comletely apart, the reflector "layer" (for lack of a better word) just keeps breaking. It's that piece of **** like plastic ceramic-y material. Broken twice on me. Once in a line seperating the high and low beam reflector bowls.
Also what's the best way to mount these *****es? Should I just epoxy these things in place?
JB Weld the reflector back together. Put foil tape on the back with a layer of JB Weld and it'll be strong as hell when it dries. You'll need to sand it all down and paint the reflector to hide it though. Happened to me, I'll post pics later.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koniig
Shrouds painted, here is a pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/P1010289.jpg
Sanded with 400 grit, cleaned with swiffer wipe and mild soap\water. Dried. Applied two coats Dupli-color adhesive primer, two coats metalcast base coat, five coats anodized red. The slight graininess is the jewelcoat showing in the picture. For some reason my camera makes them look a little orange. They do have a little "orange peel" effect going, but that is common with the metalcasts unfortunately. Still looks good.
Still having trouble with the wiring I'm trying to diagram. The relay harness ties up one of the stock outputs to power the ballasts. I can't figure out how to power the highs. There's no output on the harness for the highs. Do I need a second 9005 relay harness?? I'm almost certain I'm missing something simple (because I don't know much about car wiring) as no one else mentions having any issue with this.
You just wire the solenoid wires to the highbeam wires.Quote:
Originally Posted by laferri2
Matt at TRS told me the solenoid wires are not the correct gauge to power the high-beams, and with the TRS 9006 relay harness there is no output for the solenoid, so again no power source. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDawnGXP
The TRS 9006 harness has only 2 (real) outputs, for the ballasts, and only one input, for one half of the stock harness aside from the ground and battery connector.
Again, I think I'm missing something stupid and obvious.
What I did was soldered a 9005 connector to the end of the solenoid wires and just plugged them in. Worked fine for me. This second time around, I'm keeping the stock high beam while also using the solenoid for the bixenon feature. So splice the black solenoid wire with the black wire on the car, and the red wire with the whatever the positive wire color is on the car. I would advise against using the pigtails they send to splice into the high beam wires. They are crap and the first time or two you plug/unplug them, they will come apart. Mine did anyway.
I think I figured it out, and I'm pretty dumb if what I am thinking is true.
Does the relay harness 9006 input plug into the stock harness 9006 output, leaving the 9005 high and sidemarker still powered in circuit? This whole time I thought it connected behind the harness and took all the power, basically bypassing all stock wirng.
If so, this explains why I'm so confused...this is a nonexistent problem.
I'm thinking of using posi-locks/taps for my taps.
Also, metalcast paints apparently cure for quite some time. The red on the projectors is awesome.
Yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by laferri2
Thanks; my whole wiring diagram just fell into place. Awesome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by laferri2
You stole my idea bro! Lol, just playin'. I'm in the middle of my retrofit and I did the Gatling 2.0 shroud. I just painted my cutoff red too today. And baked and took apart the housing. But I didn't sand my shrouds though, just cleaned and put the metalcast over it. I'll post up pics when I get mine done.
There's my latest shroud combination. Took me a pretty long time to get them where I wanted.
http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/a...p/DSC00551.jpg
Man, TYC headlights are a ***** to open. They didn't use butyl tape, it's like a black adhesive liquid. I melt it with the heat gun and it immediately oozes back together around my flat head and reseals. I broke all the tabs and scratched the hell out of the lens around the seal.
5 hours of work on ONE headlight, and I probably won't get it open until after another half hour.