Thread: **HELP** 04 GTP SC shifts but wont drive

Originally Posted by wstefan20

You're 100% right bill! I ended up using this tool in my shop press and basically just used the press to push the tool down rather than deal with the threads, and that works for me, but now that I look at your extension, I think that would be a much easier way! Luckily the snap ring and compression on that clutch spring is pretty low from what I remember so it's not that bad either way. I would say to try Bill's extension method first though because it's probably vastly easier to grab the snap ring without the press being in your way.

As far as the kits, this is the kit I've used a few times: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4T65E-2004-On-GM-Tap-Shift-Super-Master-Rebuild-Kit-With-Pawl-Lug-Input-Friction/272494991653?epid=672397377&hash=item3f71f79925:g: 5lAAAOSwNSxVCzs8&vxp=mtr

Along with: 4T65E Transmission Solenoid Kit Set TCC, 2 Shift, EPC, Switch 2003 UP 84420AK | eBay

I also recommend at the bare minimum for the valve body: GM 4T65E Transmission AFL Valve Repair Kit | P1811 Code Stopper | SUPERIOR K098 | eBay

If you really want to future proof your rebuild, I'd get this instead of the above afl repair: Sonnax SC4T65E Transmission . 4t65e 91-99 | eBay

The last link includes the lube tube retainer along with seletable shims for the thrust clearances. A lot of rebuilders neglect to check this movement, but it is discussed in the video manual I cited.

These are what I use in all my rebuilds partly because I like to fix it once and fix it well rather than doing it again in a few years, and partly because I'm ocd. Take it as you will. Personally, I don't think $500 is unreasonable for parts cost to get a transmission that will likely outlast the car.

One note, while not always necessary to change, the kit does come with the case bushings and such that need to be pressed in. I got lucky and used various sockets with my shop press to install them and it worked, but it may not always work like that. I'd check them and if you can't catch your fingernail on them, you're probably good to go.

The one bearing I highly recommend replacing is: Amazon.com: AC Delco 75086 BR Needle Bearing, Converter: Automotive

As this bearing is known to grenade with age. It is press fit, so removing and installing will require a press, but most shops don't mind doing this for you for a small fee.

I usually clean and reuse the other needle bearings. The video goes over how to properly clean and inspect the bearings.

Sorry for the long description, but hopefully that helps!

This is exactly what I needed. Very detailed. Love it! Pretty much covers everything. I just have to get the right tools for the job and see if I can get some help with the parts you mentioned, that I might need a press for. All I'll need is a torque converter maybe?

Time to execute now. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by showtastiik

This is exactly what I needed. Very detailed. Love it! Pretty much covers everything. I just have to get the right tools for the job and see if I can get some help with the parts you mentioned, that I might need a press for. All I'll need is a torque converter maybe?

Time to execute now. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Thanks! And you didn't hear me say this, but in a pinch, I've used different sized sockets and a soft mallet to install and a very very steady hand with a dremmel tool and cutoff wheel to cut almost all the way through the bearing then use a very carefully placed small chisel to "deform" the bearing and force it out. Now, I'm not saying this is the right way to do it, but it works as long as you're careful!

And sorry I forgot to mention the torque converter. Yes, I 100% recommend replacing the torque converter. It is made of woven carbon and tends to hold a lot of "nasties" and isn't rebuildable, so often if you re-use one, it'll dump crud and clog up the channel plate filter and cause it to burn up pretty quick. Not worth trying to save money on it.

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Thanks! And you didn't hear me say this, but in a pinch, I've used different sized sockets and a soft mallet to install and a very very steady hand with a dremmel tool and cutoff wheel to cut almost all the way through the bearing then use a very carefully placed small chisel to "deform" the bearing and force it out. Now, I'm not saying this is the right way to do it, but it works as long as you're careful!

And sorry I forgot to mention the torque converter. Yes, I 100% recommend replacing the torque converter. It is made of woven carbon and tends to hold a lot of "nasties" and isn't rebuildable, so often if you re-use one, it'll dump crud and clog up the channel plate filter and cause it to burn up pretty quick. Not worth trying to save money on it.

Haha thanks. I'll keep that in mind when the time comes and I'm desperate. A lot of good info here. Love it!

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