Thread: electrical proble? i am baffled

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  1. #1 electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    so here is my problem... i had my tach cutting out and it appeared to miss fire when it cut out. i had an electrical diagnostic done which told me i have signal coming from my crank to the icm but nothing was leaving the icm. it throws codes some times not all the time. i replaced the icm and thought everything was ok about a week went by until it did it again. a faulty icm? i thought so i had the icm hooked up to a diagnostic machine to find out the icm is working correctly. what now? i have no clue what the problem could be it starts fine and runs fine even when the tach isnt on but it worries me because when the tach goes out so does my traction control. please help i dont know where to look next.
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  2. #2 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    sounds like a crank sensor going bad, they wont toss a code most of the time.

    if you let it go longer it may start to stall while driving down the road.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    try replacing the crank sensor.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  4. #4 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    but if it is the crank sensor would it still send a signal to the icm? i had the electrical diagnostic done and they even shoed me i was getting signal coming from the crank sensor to the icm it just wasnt going through the icm.
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  5. #5 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    when the crank sensor goes bad it will work intermittently. thats the bucking and the tack dropping on you.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    crank sensors are funny like that, they always work untill the split second when it doesnt and then shuts the car down, then you can fire it up right after it happens.

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  7. #7 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    hmm i am still unsure though. when the electrical diagnostic was done my tach wasnt working at all and i was getting signal from the crank but not through the icm. we shut off the car and started it back up and my tach was working properly so then we hooked it back up and then the icm was putting out the correct signal it should. i am just so confused i was told if it was the crank it would shut off and not run right. it runs fine though. the crank sensor is a pain in the ass to change i really was hoping for an alternative
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  8. #8 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    yes i have seen the useful forums on here. i have never pulled a harmonic balancer off i dont have air tools so it looks almost impossible to do myself and i hate taking my car to the shop when i can do most things myself
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  10. #10 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    no where does it say you need air tools in that write up. this is a 30 minute to 1 hour job tops, with just hand tools. and a puller.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Eric.. Got your pm and wanted to keep my response in the forum for future people etc.

    Do you have the list of codes that the computer had stored? That may help us further. Otherwise, I'd start checking the wire from the ICM to PCM.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  12. #12 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    no sir i was not smart on that one i disconnected the battery before i got the codes and it isnt currently throwing any codes. could it be the cps even though its sending a signal to icm?
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  13. #13 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    ok so i ignored you guys and went to the local mechanic in the beginning. He did the electrical diagnostic and assured me it was the icm not the cps so that is what i changed. now the icm is working fine i had it checked by itself but my car is doing the same thing. so i finally got a check engine light to come on after a back to back misfire and stall at 30 mph. not too fun might i add. and well you guys can kick me in the ass and say i told you so. the code read this.
    p0336 crankshaft position sensor circuit range.so i am going to attempt this myself the link above saying how to remove it for some reason will not load for me so i did research. i dont have air tools and everyone says the harmonic balancer bolt is a b**** but i can put a ratchet on it and a breaker bar and crank the engine and the engine force will break it loose. is this safe?
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  14. #14 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    oh.. and is there a brand of sensor you guys recommend?
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  15. #15 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ill copy it here for ya.




    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Jack and support passenger side front of car.
    Remove tire
    Remove plastic splash shield in front of harmonic balancer
    Untension belts
    Remove crank bolt (24mm)
    Using a balancer puller and m6 x 1.00 pitch bolts about 60-75mm in length pull the balancer


    Disconnect crank sensor electrical


    Remove plastic crank sensor shield



    Remove crank sensor (2 x 13mm bolts and wiggle it)



    Reverse for installation.

    Tip, when reinstalling the plastic crank sensor shield. Ensure each of the three nubs have clicked on the bolt ends.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  16. #16 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    Thank you. What about the breaker bar and cranking the engine to break the harmonic balancer bolt free?
    Also could I use a bwd or should I stick with ac delco
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  17. #17 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Use any...I've used BWD, used AC Delcos...anything. Likely you'll find some gunk between the high points of the sensor. Ignore that and toss it in the garbage. I've toyed with the idea of cleaning one and putting it back on, just couldn't do it though.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  18. #18 Re: electrical proble? i am baffled 
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    Thanks bill. You have been such a huge help. What about the breaking bar and cranking the engine to break the harmonic balancer bolt free. I've read over and over again how people have problems with that bolt
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