Thread: Overheating issue - absolutely stumped (Done almost everything)

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

i would remove the t stat, put the housing back on, then take the upper hose off the rad, and see if you are pumping coolant out the upper hose, if not your water pump is most likely dead. rotted impeller.

Already did that coolant flies out and waterpump was replaced last week

ever do your lim gasket?

from a bunch of the photos ive seen the coolant passages can get clogged up good.

Did LIM three months ago

do both fans come on when you turn the a/c on? and if you were to drive with the a/c on, does it still get hot? because the a/c turns the fans on and keeps them both on.

bad temp sensor, or bad fans?

it truly seems like you've hit all bases.

Originally Posted by andrewgp2000gt

curious to see ur cure cuz i have pretty much identical problem only thing in my cooling system that is not new is the heater core

pull your heater hoses off the back of the alt bracket and blow through on of them, if you can blow the coolant out of the hose your heater core is fine.

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

do both fans come on when you turn the a/c on? and if you were to drive with the a/c on, does it still get hot? because the a/c turns the fans on and keeps them both on.

bad temp sensor, or bad fans?

it truly seems like you've hit all bases.

AC not working but fans come on when temp goes too high. I replaced coolant temp sensor when i did the LIM. I get lots of heat but will check hoses. Weird part is that i get no coolant out of the bleeder when i hold rpms up

have you tried to bleed the car while its up on ramps? that gets the rad cap hole higher than the top of the lim. when on the ground level the cap is a bout a inch lower than the top of the lim.


the way i bleed my car is, rad cap open, idle till the fans come on, if the rad level drops while waiting for the fans to come top it off as needed. then when the fans turn on i open the bleeder valve till steady stream comes out. ( 3 to 4 full turns) close it, top it off, and cap it. and im always good after that one time.

waiting for the fans to come on idling can take up to 15 minutes, but you know the t stat is open if the fans are on.

any chance during any of the times you changed the t stat, did you make sure the bleeder valve is not clogged? im thinking the bolt you turn will just keep on unscrewing till it comes out altogether.

update: car not overheating but running hot. The gauge bounces up and down between 100 celsius or 210 farenheit for you US folks, and the tick before that. I did get a steady stream of coolant last night when the heater was off. With the heater on the stream wasn't quite as great. The concerning part about that is the temp outside this morning was 34 farenheit. I imagine I will have problems when we hit 80-90 farenheit in the summer months...

Bleeder not clogged, when I remove t stat completely the coolant races out like a champ from the bleeder

How high does the car need to be?

man we are in the same boat.. exactly

I bleed cars with the heat off.

the hoses to the heater core are always flowing coolant, heat on or off, there is no shut off valve on the hoses or inside by the heater core. the blend door cuts the heat off, nothing else.

so it don't matter at all weather the heat is on or off.

Correctamundo!

When you are bleeding, don't rev the motor. If you would like to see why.. leave the bleeder closed, get the radiator full and rev for a moment..then let off quickly. You will see how the system drops down and then surges based on the rpm of the water pump.

If you think your bleeding is not working properly. Pull the thermostat and fill the LIM with coolant to the lip of the manifold. Then put in the stat and finish filling the radiator. That will get around any bleeding issues. Start the car and let it run up to the temp of your thermostat (you should be able to feel the upper hose get up to temp). If there's any air, when the thermostat opens...the coolant level should drop in the radiator. Fill and cap. Ensure there is fluid in the overflow.

did you route the belt on the pulleys correctly? maybe pump is flowing wrong direction causing overheat?? just a thought

Update: Now that some hotter weather has come the car will eventually creep its way to an operating temp of between 200 & 210. Still seems far too hot for me? I took car to a mechanic & they confirmed everything is working fine with the car. Rad, pressure in system, no blockages in system. They said 2 things 1) these cars run that hot & a mechanic there who converted his to turbo says that temp is normal? 2) Gauge could be wrong - but I doubt that cuz fans click on when they should based on gauge position. Am I paranoid? I still have my 192 t stat drilled with 6 holes - I am expecting lower than normal temps...

When its 85-90 degrees out what temps everyone running at? Bear in mind, my AC is not working so I imagine temp would go higher if i fixed it?

when the a/c is on both fans turn on so i would not worry about it. these cars just like to run a bit hotter than others for sure.

my temp bounces from 1/4 to 1/2 way up the temp gauge all the time. around town im at 1/2 on the open road 1/4.

i have a regal, but they all do it.

Just a suggestion cause mine does the same exact thing, luckily the fans kick on at a little past 210... by the way its a little difficult to determine what temp each line indicates, except for the ones already marked. So im gonna say the fans kick on at about 220. 220 is past the halfway mark, and is deathly close to the red hash mark. Obviously these cars are not meant to run that high, thats just too jacked up. Too close for an easy head gasket failure. I've had this problem for close to 3 years, and I live in Oklahoma, the weather gets to about 110+ every summer. Last year we had some record breaking weather with about 120+ for weeks on end. I drove the car, but I stuck strictly to highways because the wind brings the temp down a lot... for me it came down to 195*. My A/C also doesn't work. I definatley need to fix that, lol. Its too damn hot. But my next step is to replace my coolant level sensor, its located right below your radiator cap, its a square sensor. Maybe that will kick these fans on at an earlier temp, if not than I'll replace my fan motors, and reprogram my fans to kick on at about 195*. Thats always a good option. But as far as this heating issue goes, I'm in the same boat, I've done my LIM's twice now, and replaced every cooling system component, except for the fan motors and the coolant level sensor, nothing else has made a difference.

This is where my temp use to run constantly, A/C wasn't on, so that means fans wasn't on either. Temp never went any higher, just stayed in this exact spot after the engine got to normal temp, nothing was wrong with my gauge, or any sensors.




This is how high it gets currently, then the fans kick on to bring the temp back down:



This is how hot it got outside, with no wind. (The outside temp sensor is working, it was brand new.):