Thread: What else for installing i/c?

So i have the core and bolts from SSEILMNOP, the zzp heat exchanger, pump and mounting brack for the pump, and pigtail for the pump for the I/C. SSEI's thread seems to suggest 5/8ths heater hose AND adapting fittings, and also seems at parts not 100% up to date (even if it's updated later in the thread, it's so long it's ridiculous), but I see on WBS that they sell 3/4" hose, and ZZP doesnt state exactly what hoses and clamps and fittings are in their kit.

1.) I know that grey RTV for replacing the gaskets is what goes with SSEI's i/c, so I'll be buying that, how many tubes should I need, just 1?

2.) How much of what size heater hose should I get? If i dont have to put fittings that go from 5/8" to 3/4" by just using 3/4" hose, I'd rather do that, unless there's some problem with that that I'm unaware of?

3.) How many hose clamps? 4? more? I know this kind of depends on #2.

4.) fittings?

5.) What if anything will I need to mount the h/e?

1 tube is more then enough

3/4 Heater hose IIRC his old setup he would use a fitting to angle the hose out but that's no longer a issue anymore since it's now angled

I would say have around 10 or so, but depends on if your planning on hose clamping everything

Bolts, if it's the ZZP HE it should already have the tabs welded on then you just bolt it to the crash bar

you need one tube of rtv, fuel rails of some sort, a res tank is nice, but not needed. i used 3/4 hose only.

no idea id a gp has the room to mount like this, but i welded two bolts to the rad support and nutted it on. made two holes and mounted in and outlets for the hose's.




used marine epoxy to seal them up, bone dry since day one.



you also nee to raise the icm and coils, or grind the bracket, drill new holes and move the icm over some to clear the belt.

how to for that mod http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...-BillBoost-way




i got a frozen boost 101 fmhe, this mounting bar came with it, i got it used, the ends are capped and threaded, you drill a hole on the side of the rad support and bolt it in, the lower two tabs get bolted to the lower rad support.



the you need to mod the hood latch, this how to install a ic thread covers it http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...BS-Intercooler


you need to cut the bottom off, then i welded it to the support bar.






my 20 dollar modded fuel rail made from a stock rail and 20 bucks worth of tubing and compression fittings.







and all done



getting your fmhe up high keeps the curbs from killing it too.

scott there is a nail in your tire......

im a whore lol but that covers all the odd ball crap you run into.

oh, and you may have to mod your alt bracket, or trim the plastic off the back of the alt. i had to do both.

Well, I have a guy who will be doing all the actual work, and I'll forward him that list of stuff you brought up scott, but the main thing I was intent on was getting a list of parts so he didnt have to waste any time travelling or waiting.

So what I'm gathering here, is that I need 10 ft of 3/4" hose, 6 clamps to match, and 1 tube of RTV?

If you don't have that fancy bar like Scotty has to mount it on you can do it this way. I took a torch and bent the tabs up and got some L brackets from the hardware store.

you may also need a 90º elbow i did. the upper port on the fmhe is to close tot he frame to get the hose straight enough, so i put a 90 off it and run the hose up the top side.

id get a hand full of clamps, may need 2 more if you add a 90º elbow.

and id get more hose, it goes fast.

my pump is mounted on a diy bracket, its bolted under the horn bracket. thats muffler band clamp around it for a mounting bolt off it.





im sure most shops have 1/2 a brain, but maybe suggest they cut some cardboard to fit over the condenser. you working like a 1/2 inch off it, and your hands are gonna fudge up the fins, i saw this happen to mine on the first test fits of the fmhe, cardboard was laid in there asap.

top tip (yeah I watch too much Wheeler Dealers); if you use 3/4" hose the smaller coolant elbow that goes into the LIM works perfectly for a 90* elbow . I have one going from the FMHE to my pump which is located on the drivers side wheel well. If you have a bunch of spares (like I do) they come in handy. That's why I almost never throw any car parts out.

Get one of these to tap into the fuse block for pump power:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Bl.../dp/B001QRSBW0

Originally Posted by b4black

Get one of these to tap into the fuse block for pump power:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Bl.../dp/B001QRSBW0

best to run a relay for the ic pump. thi sis mine in the rigged testing stages. its been soldered loom and mounted next to the fuse box now.

cant hurt, keeps it from sucking volts off the battery.

Scott, your engine bay looks extremely messy.

its in need of a good cleaning and new paint. coming soon.

Lay a tarp over the entire engine. There, all clean .

Originally Posted by b4black

Get one of these to tap into the fuse block for pump power:
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Bl.../dp/B001QRSBW0

http://zzperformance.com/3800/interc...pump-plug.html

will that suffice?

you need one of these for a a power source.



you link is the plug off the pump its self. i got this pump and plug, im about ready to cut the plug off and solder wire right to the pins on the pump. my pump stops working time to time, mess with the plug on the pump and it fires up and works fine. also why i like having a res tank, i can see the coolant moving in the tank when i check on it.

Originally Posted by USonuMabeaCh

http://zzperformance.com/3800/interc...pump-plug.html

will that suffice?

You should get that pigtail with the pump. I just connected the black to ground. Use a ring terminal and screw it to the frame. Use the add-a-fuse to tap into the fuel block. I think you will need a small piece wire and two splices to cover the length needed. Find a fuse that is hot only when the ignition is on. You will need to cut a slot in the fuse block cover for the wire to slip into.

I used a length of clear tubing going into the IC core. You can see the coolant moving and tell how many air bubbles there are.