Thread: Polishing or rubbing compound

Don't forget to use a coupon code, can use a 25% off and get it for under 50 before shipping.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Damn great info there. I will get some product soon and post them up. Also how do I know which is harder on the paint vs another?

A compound will always be more aggressive. Sometimes a polish leaves behind a haze after all the imperfections have been removed. This is where a polish comes in. It refines the finish and removes the haze left from a compound. It also gives you gloss and clarity of the paint. A polish also has the ability to correct. If your paint is in good condition, a polish will be more than enough to remove those light swirls.

Of course you want to clay before you use any products.

I recommend you look into the 2 bucket wash method. Stay away from car washes. Those brushes are harsh and install swirls on the paint. Same goes for coin operated car wash. Don't use the brush there. You would not believe all the gunk that is hiding within the bristles. The only time a coin op is good is to use the high pressure to remove heavy dirt and grime. Then follow up with a rinseless or waterless wash.

Originally Posted by spazzz

OK so I am going to tell you how to spend your money.
Go to walmart, oreillys or wherever and buy Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Meguiars Ultimate Polish....dammit.
Each bottle will be about $10. Then scratch your noggin about what wax to buy, but really get some Meguiars ultimate wax.
now you are up to 40 or so. Look for some clay, Meguiars supreme shine towels, some cheap,cheap microfibers for the tires and wheel wells.

I honestly think you should wait for a minute until you get the materials for the job, so you can correct the flaws ONE time.

That way when you get your wheels on the new flaw free, liquid shine, you will feel you have a new car.

Welcome to the world of detailing the right way.

Walmart offers great prices on ultimate compound, polish and wax. Along with a few other items there. Meguiar's NXT 2.0 is another synthetic wax that is good. Ultimate wax is meguiar's current longest lasting wax. But NXT 2.0 is right behind it.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Walmart it is. I already have the pads DA I just need the actual material to work with. So hopefully I can stop by today and get it.

The DA will definitely be the way to go.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

GTP89, I know I'm late to this party but this is what I use: 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound, Meguiars #82 Swirl free polish. Buffer from Harbor Freight, currently $40 and I use the foam pad that comes with it plus I bought a decent wool pad. The liquids are from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Clay bar first is a good idea, but be very careful to keep the bar clean. In between compound / polish / wax, be sure to remove all traces of the last product from the surface and don't get two products on the same pad. Also, If you are using a DA or orbital type buffer, thats a less agressive method than a rotary polisher and may not tackle the tough spots well. You asked which product is harder on the paint, well most have a scale for reference on the container, like Meguiars. In truth, its the pad that makes the big difference in how agressive your cutting method is.

This 3M compound is for rotary use. Since the op is new to detailing his car, I recommend he stick with the DA. With the DA there is a small learning curve and there is no chance for him to damage his paint.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

my last wax job my brother had some new Mequiares synthetic wax. can say i was impressed at all. paint lost that smooth feeling within months. where the turtle wax paste, aka cheap sh it lol lasts more then 6 months for me.

like guz said up there, the aggressive compounds are not for every time use. i only use it one a year. (cuts any swirls out and brings back the shine) and from the before and after pics, you can see how much haze i had to cut off the paint the first time out.

You should try out NXT 2.0. It's a little easier to apply than ultimate wax but it leaves a slightly slicker feel. It wont last as long. I would say somewhere between 3-6 months depending on the environment. It is also a common practice to top off a synthetic wax with a carnauba.

Originally Posted by spazzz

Put the money towards a 7424XP, not that much and it is an industry standard.
Those things might work for spreading wax but I'ld rather do that by hand.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

those dont work so well, they are under powered and dont spin fast enough.

the HF buffer is on sale this month, its 50 bucks. they have 2 da style buffers, one is 125, the other is 75 regular price.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i dont see the cheaper one, but this one is on sale on line for 65.


http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...l#.Uy3ZU6hdWSo

Either the porter cable or the HF DA are good enough to get your car looking good. The other one won't be as good. I would replace the backing plate on the HF DA with a 5" backing plate and use 5.5" pads. The HF pads are not that good. I personally use lake country 5.5" flat pads( orange for compounding, white for polishing and black for wax/sealant).

Originally Posted by GrandPrix06GT

Don't forget to use a coupon code, can use a 25% off and get it for under 50 before shipping.

Exactly.

Most important have fun and enjoy your results.

Originally Posted by idrivejunk

GTP89, I know I'm late to this party but this is what I use: 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound, Meguiars #82 Swirl free polish. Buffer from Harbor Freight, currently $40 and I use the foam pad that comes with it plus I bought a decent wool pad. The liquids are from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Clay bar first is a good idea, but be very careful to keep the bar clean. In between compound / polish / wax, be sure to remove all traces of the last product from the surface and don't get two products on the same pad. Also, If you are using a DA or orbital type buffer, thats a less agressive method than a rotary polisher and may not tackle the tough spots well. You asked which product is harder on the paint, well most have a scale for reference on the container, like Meguiars. In truth, its the pad that makes the big difference in how agressive your cutting method is.

That is the one I was going to get but it is a bit pricy for starters. So I will be getting some decent stuff from Walmart to practice. So hopefully all goes well to get some better stuff after that

This is the stuff I got.

but was wondering if this is a wax I should get and same with the clay bars. The bars come on a package with a spray on type wax and microfiber inside the box or should I just get it separate some how.

this is what i used last wax job, not happy with it, does not last more then a month or so. glad my brother bought it and not me lol

In that case what do I get lol

I know u have used a 2.0 wax that was on a purple bottle before and loved the outcome.

I get the Mothers box, just because that is what I am used to.
Inside you will find two clay bars and some detail spray.
You use the spray to lube the clay. Mist the surface and go over only the wet spot with the clay.
You can tear the bars in half. put the new unused portion in a ziplock misted with the detail spray to keep wet.
Flatten the bar in your palm and press flat on car. Gently slide over misted section back and forth /up and down until the grinding stops and it slides silky smooth.
Kneed the bar and repeat.

Be careful not to hit dry paint with the clay. You will leave a smudge and possibly or most likely mar the paint.

Good choices on the purchases. I feel the Ultimate wax lasts as long as anything out there for what it is, if not longer.
And it is a awesome looking finish.
I only use it for summer because I will wax about every warm month.

During winter months I use a more indestructible wax.




You are on your way with some quality products.


Do some searches for NXT 2.0 VS Ultimate wax.

But remember prep is the key.

im pretty sure this pic was taken about a week after i last waxed it. that ultimate liquid worked damn good. as you can see. but did not last. if you could wax every other month it would work out fine. the buffer i use is my brothers, so its 50 miles away.

Nice thanks guys. I will most likely get the 2.0 since it made a good difference when I used it.

So now. More questions. Lol

1. What is a 2 bucket system wash I am nob at this in case you haven't noticed.

2. Wash first, clay bar with spray, compound, polish and wax correct?
3. Do I do the wax with the DA or by hand?

4. Anything else I need to know?

Thanks for the help guys I just lowered me car. Will be adding the rims and cts v brakes real soon but want the paint to look at least a bit nicer.


Don't mind the burned paint on the bumper.

2 buckets. one with clean water, the other with your soapy water. after you soap up and wash the car some, as the soap runs out, dunk the mitt in the clean water, then ring it out a few times, then re soap it. repeat as needed. this keeps your soapy water free of dirt.

^ bam

Wash first, clay bar, wash again, compound, polish, then wax

I wax by hand.. I only use my DA to compound/polish.. Wax by hand is a bit easier and I don't have to lug a tool around plus it's easier to control the amount of product that your putting on the paint.

Also you can do what's called a baggie test basically put your hand in a clean zip lock bag and rub your hand across the paint... If there's any continents left in the paint you'll feel it

Awesome guys thanks for the great info. As far as everything I posted. Does it seem like I have everything on check?
Any shampoo recommendations I usually use dawn or another dish washer soap at time with a car soap mixed in.

Yea a bit of dawn is fine..don't overdue it though...remember dawn will strip any wax you have on the car. But also when you clay/polish that will also remove any old wax or polish so really you have to add dawn unless you want to.

Let's see...
-Clay bar
-Polish
-Compound
-Whatever car soap you choose.
-Not a bad idea to grab a large bottle of detail spray (meguiars quick detailed (in a red bottle I believe) because you will use a lot when you clay the car (lube is good)
-make sure you have enough microfiber towels (meguiars surpreme shine ones) are pretty good
-DA w/ enough pads
-something to apply the wax with

Some tips...
- a full paint correction can take hours to do..there's no rush to get it done all in one day.. You can split panels up into multiple days. Examples sometimes I don't have 8 hrs to dedicate on paint correction.. Often times I will split the car in half and knock it out in 2 days.. For example I'll knock out the hood, bumper and both fenders on one day then come the next day I'll knock out the roof, trunklid, qrt panels etc. I'll wash, clay, wash, compound, polish then seal... All these in one day.. Then the next day (or whenever time/weather allows) I'll knock out the trunklid, roof, qrter panels etc. and I'll either wash the car again that day prior to starting or if the car is still rather clean ill do a rinseless wash or use a simple quick detailer.
- clean pads are happy pads.. Don't try to do the whole car with the same pad.. You'll just make it even more difficult and you'll end up wasting product. Have multiple of each pads that way your not having to stop to clean them right away.. You can also do what's call a on the fly cleanings method where basically you take the da and flip it upside down in your hand and using a clean terry towel.. Place it onto the pad.. Then using your other hand to hold the towel onto the pad.. Then you turn the da on for a few seconds and it will clean it pretty good (hope this makes sense I'll post a vid later)
- it's a trial and error type of thing don't get upset if you hate the results.. A lot of it has to do with your technique you gotta learn how to use the DA and how to use the product you selected.. Don't just assume that you need to go out and buy another prod cut because the one you have doesn't produce the results you were hoping for


I'm sure I'll add more to this later

You can also use very soapy/sudsy water and a washmitt with the clay, that is what I typically do.

Originally Posted by GTP89

This is the stuff I got.

but was wondering if this is a wax I should get and same with the clay bars. The bars come on a package with a spray on type wax and microfiber inside the box or should I just get it separate some how.

Good stuff. You can't go wrong with either clay bar kit. The spray bottle is detail spray and not a wax. It is used to lubricate the surface when using clay. You can also use it to remove dust and finger prints.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

this is what i used last wax job, not happy with it, does not last more then a month or so. glad my brother bought it and not me lol

Ultimate wax is not for everyone. It sounds like something was wrong in the application. Ultimate wax has to applied very thin.

Originally Posted by GTP89

In that case what do I get lol

I know u have used a 2.0 wax that was on a purple bottle before and loved the outcome.

Ultimate wax is meguiar's current longest lasting wax. NXT 2.0 is right behind it. I'm a fan of both. I actually use the professional version of NXT 2.0 called M21 synthetic sealant 2.0. With the color of your car I would do 1 coat of NXT or UW and follow that with a coat of gold class carnauba. The carnauba will give the dark paint a nice warm glow where as the synthetic wax will give you the wet look.

Originally Posted by spazzz

I get the Mothers box, just because that is what I am used to.
Inside you will find two clay bars and some detail spray.
You use the spray to lube the clay. Mist the surface and go over only the wet spot with the clay.
You can tear the bars in half. put the new unused portion in a ziplock misted with the detail spray to keep wet.
Flatten the bar in your palm and press flat on car. Gently slide over misted section back and forth /up and down until the grinding stops and it slides silky smooth.
Kneed the bar and repeat.

Be careful not to hit dry paint with the clay. You will leave a smudge and possibly or most likely mar the paint.

Good choices on the purchases. I feel the Ultimate wax lasts as long as anything out there for what it is, if not longer.
And it is a awesome looking finish.
I only use it for summer because I will wax about every warm month.

During winter months I use a more indestructible wax.




You are on your way with some quality products.


Do some searches for NXT 2.0 VS Ultimate wax.

But remember prep is the key.

Good info

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

im pretty sure this pic was taken about a week after i last waxed it. that ultimate liquid worked damn good. as you can see. but did not last. if you could wax every other month it would work out fine. the buffer i use is my brothers, so its 50 miles away.

Remember beading doesn't mean protection. When water beads on unwaxed paint does that mean it is preotected? Ulitmate wax sheets water.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Nice thanks guys. I will most likely get the 2.0 since it made a good difference when I used it.

So now. More questions. Lol

1. What is a 2 bucket system wash I am nob at this in case you haven't noticed.

2. Wash first, clay bar with spray, compound, polish and wax correct?
3. Do I do the wax with the DA or by hand?

4. Anything else I need to know?

Thanks for the help guys I just lowered me car. Will be adding the rims and cts v brakes real soon but want the paint to look at least a bit nicer.


Don't mind the burned paint on the bumper.

You should go over on meguiars online. They have started there Thursday night detailing classes. They are in Irvine. You are not that far. Let me know if you need some help or if you need some helpful tips.

You have the process correct. You can wax by DA or by hand. That is your choice. Remember you want to apply either ultimate wax or NXT 2.0 thin.

Originally Posted by spazzz

Just like that^^^^
A grit guard, to trap the dirt, in each pail is highly recommended.

I wax by hand with the round sponge applicators.
Don't forget some soft Microfibers for product removal.

A grit guard is in each bucket is a good idea and good practice.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

^ bam

Also you can do what's called a baggie test basically put your hand in a clean zip lock bag and rub your hand across the paint... If there's any continents left in the paint you'll feel it

Good tip.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Yea a bit of dawn is fine..don't overdue it though...remember dawn will strip any wax you have on the car. But also when you clay/polish that will also remove any old wax or polish so really you have to add dawn unless you want to.

Let's see...
-Clay bar
-Polish
-Compound
-Whatever car soap you choose.
-Not a bad idea to grab a large bottle of detail spray (meguiars quick detailed (in a red bottle I believe) because you will use a lot when you clay the car (lube is good)
-make sure you have enough microfiber towels (meguiars surpreme shine ones) are pretty good
-DA w/ enough pads
-something to apply the wax with

Some tips...
- a full paint correction can take hours to do..there's no rush to get it done all in one day.. You can split panels up into multiple days. Examples sometimes I don't have 8 hrs to dedicate on paint correction.. Often times I will split the car in half and knock it out in 2 days.. For example I'll knock out the hood, bumper and both fenders on one day then come the next day I'll knock out the roof, trunklid, qrt panels etc. I'll wash, clay, wash, compound, polish then seal... All these in one day.. Then the next day (or whenever time/weather allows) I'll knock out the trunklid, roof, qrter panels etc. and I'll either wash the car again that day prior to starting or if the car is still rather clean ill do a rinseless wash or use a simple quick detailer.
- clean pads are happy pads.. Don't try to do the whole car with the same pad.. You'll just make it even more difficult and you'll end up wasting product. Have multiple of each pads that way your not having to stop to clean them right away.. You can also do what's call a on the fly cleanings method where basically you take the da and flip it upside down in your hand and using a clean terry towel.. Place it onto the pad.. Then using your other hand to hold the towel onto the pad.. Then you turn the da on for a few seconds and it will clean it pretty good (hope this makes sense I'll post a vid later)
- it's a trial and error type of thing don't get upset if you hate the results.. A lot of it has to do with your technique you gotta learn how to use the DA and how to use the product you selected.. Don't just assume that you need to go out and buy another prod cut because the one you have doesn't produce the results you were hoping for


I'm sure I'll add more to this later

Good stuff. I recommend you get a pad conditioning pad and clean your pads after you work on a panel. A panel for reference being a fender. For larger areas like the hood or roof divide it up into smaller workable sections.

You also want to do this in the shade. You don't want the surface to be hot when you work.

Originally Posted by The Guz

Remember beading doesn't mean protection. When water beads on unwaxed paint does that mean it is preotected? Ulitmate wax sheets water.

i got ya on this one, it beads up for sure, and then stops, and looks like crap unless you re wax it.

im not showing the beading up per say. its the reflection. and 6 months later its pretty much lost all that shine too.

ive used a bunch of meguiars products over the years, that ultimate fake wax was a big let down. the swirl removers and polish and wax all seemed to work great in the past.

4-6 months seems to be the norm for a sealant. Give it another shot. But this time get some ultimate quik detailer and ultimate quik wax. Use ultimate quik detailer after a wash and then once a month switch to using ultimate quik wax. That will boost the characteristics of ultimate wax. They are good maintenance products. If not I would be more than happy to take it off your hands.

Wow I can't believe all the great help and info on here guys I really appreciate it. Hopefully soon I can pick up the rest of the stuff. Clay bar, microfiber towels and the 2.0 wax seems like is all I am missing since I have the da 3 different pads that the guy told me I needed, compound and polisher.
And some new pads for waxing.

Hope you guys don't mind me resurfacing this thread. LOTS of good info tho, so hopefully someone who needs the tips will find it as a result.

BUT, I plan to get a buffer this spring finally. My paint/CC took a serious beating this winter in Chicago. I havent even given it a good wash yet cause all the scratches are gonna eat away at me lol.

Question is... anyone use this Meguiar's DA? Just wondering, seems like everyone loves the PC. Only ~$30 more than the PC.