Thread: Polishing or rubbing compound

What's the difference between the two? And do you polish before every wax? Also do you put anything on top of your wax?

i use liquid compound, then paste wax with a buffer. i use good old turtle wax. nice and cheap and lasts a good year.

i normally do it once year in the fall. but you can always wax it more often.

the compound removes the swirl marks you see in your paint. and makes it shine again.

this was my paint when i first got it.



after some personal time with a PC buffer.

Scotty any tips?
I plan to do my 40th and gtx since the paint is oxidized on one csr and the other the clear coat us just filled with water stains and doesn't shine at all.
I have a buffer already but any techniques to it?

I just worry on burning the clear coat.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Scotty any tips?
I plan to do my 40th and gtx since the paint is oxidized on one csr and the other the clear coat us just filled with water stains and doesn't shine at all.
I have a buffer already but any techniques to it?

I just worry on burning the clear coat.

search youtube for how to use a porter cable buffer, theres a bunch of how to's. with a pc orbital buffer you cant f up the paint, its almost impossible.

wash car, compound with buffer, then wax with buffer.

all i used was turtle wax liquid compound, #7 or 8, and then turtle wax paste wax in the can. applied with the buffer.

I'm battling water spots right now.

The only thing that has worked so far is white wine vinegar.

You'll never burn the paint with a porter cable, unless you are dumb and leave it there for 5 minutes in 1 spot.

I just use a light compound first, then polish and wax.

You can feel the stuff it takes off as you do sections of the body.

I always wash with a harsh soap before correcting paint. Make sure you clay bar as well, then wash again. I would certainly advise against polishing before each wax. It's a waste of clay and soap and will eventually wear through your top coat.

Typically before winter I will do a sealant on the paint and then a layer of carnauba wax, not the other way around.

Is a buffer a must? Will all by hand look snotty or just make me wanna drive into a tree

the buffer does a better job hands down. ive done the hand compound, and its worthless.


when you work the buffer you do a 2 foot x 2 foot area at a time tops. you work a box out line, then work the buffer up and down with a 50% over lap side to side, then do the same left and right. repeat 4 to 5 times for each box you do.

when you first start and wipe that first box clean with a micro fiber rag, it just shines back at you . like looking into a mirror. its all it takes to get you amped up to do the whole car.

and how smooth the paint feels vs the old not worked paint.

I was planning on getting a 3m rubbing compound and a polish glaze they have, one of my painters that I know uses it and he suggested it. I have the pads just not the actual compounds yet. Don't know if something from say autozone or Walmart will be good for now to try it out.

Griots Garage has an excellent starting package for someone who wants to get into paint correction on a budget, it has anything and everything you'd need. I've been using their products for a couple years and have never been disappointed.

edit:

paint correction link- http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

Awesome awesome wash/detail kit by them- http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

Originally Posted by GTPgasm

What's the difference between the two? And do you polish before every wax? Also do you put anything on top of your wax?

A compound is often used to remove water spots, oxidation, swirls, scratches and blemishes. Those are just a few things.

Used on paint in good condition, a polish removes light swirls and water spots and deepens the paint color with rich polishing oils. It can be used any time the paint looks dull or lacks gloss.

I paraphrased it as best as I could. The order is wash > clay > compound > polish > wax. One does not have to go through all the steps. It depends on what the person is trying to achieve and how neglected the paint is. You always want to do a test spot first with the least aggressive product. Often times a polish is more than enough to bring back the paints clarity. If the polish doesn't remove those imperfections then you can go a little more aggressive with a compound.

If you are looking for a less steps then you would wash > clay > cleaner wax. Meguiar's white wax is an excellent cleaner wax.

Remember a car has a thin layer of clear coat and compounding and polishing removes a little clear coat each time. That is why the least aggressive product is good to start with.

I compounded my Grand Prix once and polish/wax every 6 - 7 months. I use a 2 bucket wash method and maintain my car with a spray wax and detail spray to boost the existing wax and extend it's life until I am ready to polish/wax again. The durability of a wax depends on the environment you are in. A harsh environment will degrade a wax sooner. It also depends on if you use a carnauba wax or a synthetic wax (known as a sealant). A sealant will outlast a carnauba. A typical carnauba can last somewhere between 1-3 months. A sealant can last somewhere between 4-6 months.

Some people like to do what is called layering where you use a coat of synthetic wax first. Wipe it off and let it sit overnight for 12 hours and then add a coat of carnauba to get the warmth look a carnauba offers.

This is a lot of info but I hope it helps. You can tell what I do in my spare time.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i use liquid compound, then paste wax with a buffer. i use good old turtle wax. nice and cheap and lasts a good year.

i normally do it once year in the fall. but you can always wax it more often.

the compound removes the swirl marks you see in your paint. and makes it shine again.

FYI turtle wax compound can sometimes be a little to aggressive and can leave it's own imperfections. I see your photos and as it's often said over on autogeek if you find something you like and it works then keep using it. My preference over the counter products are Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Ultimate polish and ultimate wax.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Scotty any tips?
I plan to do my 40th and gtx since the paint is oxidized on one csr and the other the clear coat us just filled with water stains and doesn't shine at all.
I have a buffer already but any techniques to it?

I just worry on burning the clear coat.

Using a dual action polisher will not burn through the clear coat. A rotary can. Stick with a DA. Using the proper foam pads with a DA you can remove the water spots and oxidation. It will not help clear coat that is failing. As a matter of fact you do not want to polish any areas with clear coat failure with a DA. It will speed up the process and you will be left with no clear coat.

For water spots check out meguiar's new water spot remover polish. It works great and can be purchased at most autoparts store. Then you can follow up with a wax or synthetic wax.

Junkman has some good videos on youtube.

Originally Posted by Jomamma

I'm battling water spots right now.

The only thing that has worked so far is white wine vinegar.

Give meguiar's water spot remover polish a shot. Follow up with a wax.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

You'll never burn the paint with a porter cable, unless you are dumb and leave it there for 5 minutes in 1 spot.

I just use a light compound first, then polish and wax.

You can feel the stuff it takes off as you do sections of the body.

Agreed it is very hard to damage your clear coat with a porter cable. Again a test spot with the least aggressive product is the way to go.

Originally Posted by spazzz

A quick stumble thru the posts on Meguiars online and Autogeek will tell you a lot.
On a black car the story goes.............
First the wash(2 bucket system) and clay.
To get rid of my winter swirls I will first use Meguiars Ultimate polish with a Lake country white pad on my Porter Cable 7424XP.
If that doesn't do it I will step up my game with Meguiars Ultimate compound and a Lake country orange pad followed by the previous steps.
Then for summer, my fave wax is Meguiars Ultimate Wax(liquid this year, last year was paste)

I could probably use Megs 105/205 twins but why fix something thats not broke.

The GUZ shipped me some samples of Meguiars Mirror Glaze#21 and some Hi-tech yellow wax#26, I'm dying to try.
He suggested the #26 over the Ultimate wax for some more pop. I listen to him, that cat knows what he is talking about.

And don't forget some quality micro-fibers. Meguiars has some decent yellows,sold at the wall and auto stores.
Chemical Guys has some 16x24s on Amazon, 6 for 20

Thanks for the props. I do what I can to help. Keeping cars clean and looking good is my hobby. I'm looking forward to seeing your car with the M21/M26 combo I sent you. You said it right if something works then stick with it.

Originally Posted by WhiteLightningGTP

I always wash with a harsh soap before correcting paint. Make sure you clay bar as well, then wash again. I would certainly advise against polishing before each wax. It's a waste of clay and soap and will eventually wear through your top coat.

Typically before winter I will do a sealant on the paint and then a layer of carnauba wax, not the other way around.

I read and tend to agree with some that say there is no need to wash with a harsh soap like dawn. Yes dawn can remove a carnauba wax but it sometimes has no effect on a synthetic wax. If one is going to polish, the polish will strip off any wax or sealant that is left on the paint. Especially after a few months after the wax/sealant has already broken down due to it's environment.

Originally Posted by GTPgasm

Is a buffer a must? Will all by hand look snotty or just make me wanna drive into a tree

Originally Posted by spazzz

Typically you use the DA polisher(dual action) to get the imperfections out then sustain with the washes,waxes,quick wax sprays and detailer sprays.
But that one time you use it, it pays for itself. You will be glad you bought it. Night and day difference.
The thought of doing a car with all the voodoo by hand makes me want to take a nap.

Harbor freight has a DA for around the 60 mark. Also some pads will be needed.
Entertaining the thought is half the battle. A few dollars spent will pimp your car.

Well put.

Originally Posted by GTP89

I was planning on getting a 3m rubbing compound and a polish glaze they have, one of my painters that I know uses it and he suggested it. I have the pads just not the actual compounds yet. Don't know if something from say autozone or Walmart will be good for now to try it out.

You don't need a glaze. All it does is hide the swirls with fillers. It doesn't actually remove swirls. It also offers no protection and will be gone after a few washes. It's common for paint shops to use a glaze. People like to see shiny paint and new paint should not be waxed for about 30-90 days. Depends on the painters recommendation.

Originally Posted by WhiteLightningGTP

Griots Garage has an excellent starting package for someone who wants to get into paint correction on a budget, it has anything and everything you'd need. I've been using their products for a couple years and have never been disappointed.

edit:

paint correction link- http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

Awesome awesome wash/detail kit by them- http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

Griot's garage offers some nice products. Used a couple and they work. I always tend to go back to meguiar's.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Meguiars ultimate compound is pretty good and cheap.

Yup. My favorite over the counter compound. It is derived from the professional product M105 but it is more user friendly. Follow that up with ultimate polish and your favorite wax. You will get the car's paint to have even more pop.

Originally Posted by painthorsemoe

also dont go for a bead in water.. go for a sheet. you want the water to sheet off once youre done with it.. reason being ( in my belief) is that when you have beads of water on your car. those beads turn into little little magnifying glasses and intesify the UV rays that damage paint. so i say if it beads its not protected enough, paint that is.

Agreed. You put into good words. The average consumer loves beading. They like to see tight water beads. But beading is not always a sign of protection. I prefer something that is water sheeting. Water beads will stay on the cars paint and can develop into water spots. With water sheeting, the water sheets off the car so you avoid water spots.

It's a lot of information. I am always available by PM if anyone has questions regarding products and how to get your car looking good as well as maintaining your hard work.

Meguiars ultimate compound is pretty good and cheap.

Lmao unless you have a really crappy paint job even then I don't ever see beading having a negative effect on your paint.

Is this stuff I can get at the store as mentioned above?
Also is clay bar a must? Never used it before. Also does everything have to be specific down to the name. It's all very confusing to me that is why I ask.