Thread: Polishing or rubbing compound

Originally Posted by GTP89

This is the stuff I got.

but was wondering if this is a wax I should get and same with the clay bars. The bars come on a package with a spray on type wax and microfiber inside the box or should I just get it separate some how.

Good stuff. You can't go wrong with either clay bar kit. The spray bottle is detail spray and not a wax. It is used to lubricate the surface when using clay. You can also use it to remove dust and finger prints.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

this is what i used last wax job, not happy with it, does not last more then a month or so. glad my brother bought it and not me lol

Ultimate wax is not for everyone. It sounds like something was wrong in the application. Ultimate wax has to applied very thin.

Originally Posted by GTP89

In that case what do I get lol

I know u have used a 2.0 wax that was on a purple bottle before and loved the outcome.

Ultimate wax is meguiar's current longest lasting wax. NXT 2.0 is right behind it. I'm a fan of both. I actually use the professional version of NXT 2.0 called M21 synthetic sealant 2.0. With the color of your car I would do 1 coat of NXT or UW and follow that with a coat of gold class carnauba. The carnauba will give the dark paint a nice warm glow where as the synthetic wax will give you the wet look.

Originally Posted by spazzz

I get the Mothers box, just because that is what I am used to.
Inside you will find two clay bars and some detail spray.
You use the spray to lube the clay. Mist the surface and go over only the wet spot with the clay.
You can tear the bars in half. put the new unused portion in a ziplock misted with the detail spray to keep wet.
Flatten the bar in your palm and press flat on car. Gently slide over misted section back and forth /up and down until the grinding stops and it slides silky smooth.
Kneed the bar and repeat.

Be careful not to hit dry paint with the clay. You will leave a smudge and possibly or most likely mar the paint.

Good choices on the purchases. I feel the Ultimate wax lasts as long as anything out there for what it is, if not longer.
And it is a awesome looking finish.
I only use it for summer because I will wax about every warm month.

During winter months I use a more indestructible wax.




You are on your way with some quality products.


Do some searches for NXT 2.0 VS Ultimate wax.

But remember prep is the key.

Good info

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

im pretty sure this pic was taken about a week after i last waxed it. that ultimate liquid worked damn good. as you can see. but did not last. if you could wax every other month it would work out fine. the buffer i use is my brothers, so its 50 miles away.

Remember beading doesn't mean protection. When water beads on unwaxed paint does that mean it is preotected? Ulitmate wax sheets water.

Originally Posted by GTP89

Nice thanks guys. I will most likely get the 2.0 since it made a good difference when I used it.

So now. More questions. Lol

1. What is a 2 bucket system wash I am nob at this in case you haven't noticed.

2. Wash first, clay bar with spray, compound, polish and wax correct?
3. Do I do the wax with the DA or by hand?

4. Anything else I need to know?

Thanks for the help guys I just lowered me car. Will be adding the rims and cts v brakes real soon but want the paint to look at least a bit nicer.


Don't mind the burned paint on the bumper.

You should go over on meguiars online. They have started there Thursday night detailing classes. They are in Irvine. You are not that far. Let me know if you need some help or if you need some helpful tips.

You have the process correct. You can wax by DA or by hand. That is your choice. Remember you want to apply either ultimate wax or NXT 2.0 thin.

Originally Posted by spazzz

Just like that^^^^
A grit guard, to trap the dirt, in each pail is highly recommended.

I wax by hand with the round sponge applicators.
Don't forget some soft Microfibers for product removal.

A grit guard is in each bucket is a good idea and good practice.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

^ bam

Also you can do what's called a baggie test basically put your hand in a clean zip lock bag and rub your hand across the paint... If there's any continents left in the paint you'll feel it

Good tip.

Originally Posted by REDCOMPG

Yea a bit of dawn is fine..don't overdue it though...remember dawn will strip any wax you have on the car. But also when you clay/polish that will also remove any old wax or polish so really you have to add dawn unless you want to.

Let's see...
-Clay bar
-Polish
-Compound
-Whatever car soap you choose.
-Not a bad idea to grab a large bottle of detail spray (meguiars quick detailed (in a red bottle I believe) because you will use a lot when you clay the car (lube is good)
-make sure you have enough microfiber towels (meguiars surpreme shine ones) are pretty good
-DA w/ enough pads
-something to apply the wax with

Some tips...
- a full paint correction can take hours to do..there's no rush to get it done all in one day.. You can split panels up into multiple days. Examples sometimes I don't have 8 hrs to dedicate on paint correction.. Often times I will split the car in half and knock it out in 2 days.. For example I'll knock out the hood, bumper and both fenders on one day then come the next day I'll knock out the roof, trunklid, qrt panels etc. I'll wash, clay, wash, compound, polish then seal... All these in one day.. Then the next day (or whenever time/weather allows) I'll knock out the trunklid, roof, qrter panels etc. and I'll either wash the car again that day prior to starting or if the car is still rather clean ill do a rinseless wash or use a simple quick detailer.
- clean pads are happy pads.. Don't try to do the whole car with the same pad.. You'll just make it even more difficult and you'll end up wasting product. Have multiple of each pads that way your not having to stop to clean them right away.. You can also do what's call a on the fly cleanings method where basically you take the da and flip it upside down in your hand and using a clean terry towel.. Place it onto the pad.. Then using your other hand to hold the towel onto the pad.. Then you turn the da on for a few seconds and it will clean it pretty good (hope this makes sense I'll post a vid later)
- it's a trial and error type of thing don't get upset if you hate the results.. A lot of it has to do with your technique you gotta learn how to use the DA and how to use the product you selected.. Don't just assume that you need to go out and buy another prod cut because the one you have doesn't produce the results you were hoping for


I'm sure I'll add more to this later

Good stuff. I recommend you get a pad conditioning pad and clean your pads after you work on a panel. A panel for reference being a fender. For larger areas like the hood or roof divide it up into smaller workable sections.

You also want to do this in the shade. You don't want the surface to be hot when you work.

Originally Posted by The Guz

Remember beading doesn't mean protection. When water beads on unwaxed paint does that mean it is preotected? Ulitmate wax sheets water.

i got ya on this one, it beads up for sure, and then stops, and looks like crap unless you re wax it.

im not showing the beading up per say. its the reflection. and 6 months later its pretty much lost all that shine too.

ive used a bunch of meguiars products over the years, that ultimate fake wax was a big let down. the swirl removers and polish and wax all seemed to work great in the past.