Thread: ....you know what it is... 700whp build

finger over the camera

Finger fail on my part yes

using a gen 3 aluminum subframe, have to fab mounts as theres no mounting spots for this trans, using a spare motor and trans for mock up. going to be mounting in the car this week, next week the custom turbo kit begins

Originally Posted by mallard22

Hello, i'm new to this site and iam just trying to figure out how this all works... First off i have an 08' gxp and i want to install a turbo on it.. And i am kind of lost on where to exactly start.. Do i have to do any mods in order to have a turbo or can i just install a turbo and be done with it? Could someone please help me out


thanks, mallard22

2 things.

1...welcome.

2...try starting your own thread and reading...it helps.

Ever tried a rear mount turbo? I mean you could run some nice headers and have an get a even cooler charge entering the motor, is the boost drop the problem or just too much lag? And you got any closer pics of the custom trans mount on there? I see your car and really consider just spending the 2-3k I need for a bulletproof automatic and do the manual swap instead and have more fun with it...lol

Intense did a STS Remote mount setup a few years back on a bone stock GT GP...

http://www.3800pro.com/forum/turbos/...turbo-kit.html

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Intense did a STS Remote mount setup a few years back on a bone stock GT GP...

INTENSE Rear-mounted Turbo Kit! - 3800Pro.com Forum

I've see that car and the other twincharged cutlass l67, but I was wondering why if going for super high numbers, would it be better? I mean the headers and cooler charge should help a lot I would think. Was just curious which would make better numbers with the same turbo used?

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

Literally everything in this post is completely backwards.

I find this hard to believe that it is not a troll post, so I wont comment.

I must be ignorant then... You could run headers with a rear mount, so not backwards. The air running over the charge pipe headed back up front cools it a little bit which cooling a gas makes it denser making the psi go down a bit. And I'm saying of course you would still use the same fmhe in there with it so I don't think that's backwards. And I'm not a turbo guy but I think adding all that length to the charge pipe AND the feed creates lag, right?

Feel free to set me straight instead of calling me a troll... And let's try to keep it civil, k thanks bye

dont worry kejross, hes a smart*** from the other forum

plain and simple- rear mount is junk...

got my spacer for between the engine and trans, 3/8" thick, the axles were already 1/2" longer then then "stock" last year as my axle geometry can be pretty nuts, so this year ill be ruiing the hybrid passenger one and a stock length drivers axle, will be perfect.


also did some cosmetics..
cleaned up all my wiring, everyting is spereated, powers, rca's speaker wire, and the air ride stuff. you can see the power wire (1/0 ga) running down the drivers side




also, you cant be a cool turbo build without some ubber clean interior... charcoal carpet.. was a late night, sorry about crap pic



and seats.. i had the 04 cloth in there last year but accumulated 2 sets of leathers in the last month, im taking the best of each set and putting them in my car, removing the air bags, power portions, ect to lighten them up a little and then selling the other remaining seats.


the parts on the seats are for a turbo install i am doing for a customer., just got them back from the powder coater.

there is alot of money into ths setup now, way too much. but you can use a spec stage 3+ and make 500whp no problem with the right mods,


update again

intermediate shaft to engine block mount, triangulated, this will be excellent.




ready for powder




the trans mount is wraped around the subframe in a U shape, hes a few more pics.



clutch slave lines ran, you can see the gromet for the one line, the other will be going through the inspecton cover which is made of rubber aswell



i made this bracket to keep the release bearing from spinnig on the base, on the top ill be using a P clup to keep the braided line down thats why its not tightened yet.


engine and trans will be bolted onto the subframe tomorrow and may get put in the car if i get the chance.

you said this is a gen 3 aluminum subframe? gen 3 what? because I thought the 3rd gen gp was the 72-77 and that wouldn't be right. lol

Thanks for the pics kuntzie that **** is legit man, looking good!

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

First, I never called you a troll, I said I wasnt going to "start ****" in case you were just baiting someone out. Prepare to get owned:

I didn't know that you answering my questions meant I would get owned...

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

Ok, First off, headers will decrease your exhaust energy going to the rear, creating lower spool. Second headers would never increase power, because well there is over 1.5x the pressure in your exhaust, than what is in your intake side on any turbo setup.

Thank you, very helpful info for me. As you can tell by my lack of knowledge on the subject, cars are just a hobby for me and obviously a bit more for you. As I've never had a turbo or even looked into seriously getting one I've never researched them just always thought the idea of a rear mount was interesting. Then figured kuntzie might be a good guy to ask a couple questions that just seemed like they might work... And since your such an expert maybe you could own me again by sending me a pm about twin charging, which is the only reason I was ever interested in a rear mount anyway. Cause it too seemed pretty interesting and "like it might just work"

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

The "cooler charge" idea is also dumb, because after pushing air through a maze of tubes over that long of a distance, the turbo is going to have to work harder to get the same amount of air to the front, which will increase the temperature of said air. An intercooler in ANY turbo setup would have a massive cooling property compared to any "long series of tubes".



"boost drop" does not exist, due to the fact that you pick what boost you want to see at the intake manifold. Any "drop" you may see is going to be caused by resistance via surface tension or turbulence. "lag" is created by the fact that your exhaust has lost 20-40% of its energy by the time it has gotten back to the turbo.

Thanks again, very good info.

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

The trans is not mounted yet..

I meant when it was, which he already did.

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

I am really confused by this... I dont see why you would want to do a manual, as the fact that it cost well more than double what a built auto would, and you would still have to install it.... The clutch alone in this car cost what a built trans costs, and probably much more.

Like I said, manuals are more fun... Plus I'm a pretty decent fabricator and could build some brackets like the ones he made fairly easily. And no, nothing on his level as far as a clutch like that, just a simple one that works or maybe a stage 1. I'll be lucky to even hit 300whp with my build in the works even with n2o. So to summarize I could easily do this for the cost of built trans with me making the brackets, a used trans, lower end clutch, shop down the street making my axles, and then the parts to put the pedal and shifter linkages in...

Sub'd

i think he means 3rd gen wbody

3rd gen gp would technically be a B body still i believe

ya 04+ subframe