You thought I was talking about end links? Lol no way man. I would cut links if they gave me any trouble.
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You thought I was talking about end links? Lol no way man. I would cut links if they gave me any trouble.
I soaked the **** out of the hokey puck bushing with pb blaster got sick of it and just cut the ****er off with the saws all lol.
The w body ball joints always come out real easy for me. And I'm in the salt belt. I take the nut most of the way off, pry between the CV shaft and nut , and it usually comes right off, then I remove the nut the rest of the way. I do put penetrating oil down the tapered fitting once the nut is loose. Seems to help consistently.
for separating stubborn lbj from the knuckle I loop a chain around the c/a near the bj. Then slide a long pry bar through the chain and wedge the tip under the subframe. I have someone push down on the prybar while I give the side of the knuckle taper a rap with the air hammer.
I had to jam a screw driver in the hockey puck bushing because it just kept spinning and spinning.
Ha you sucker sawing endlinks off. I turned mine a 1/8th turn and it broke into about 6 pieces.
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Last edited by Russosaur; 11-01-2014 at 11:15 AM.
If the hockey puck bushing gets stuck to the bolt, get past the rubber part however you need to and find the split in the metal sleeve and use a chisel, air hammer or even a screw driver and hammer. Just got to open it ever so slightly and the bolt will come out.
No it should come with everything you need
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Found it, does this help?
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Only note i have the actually bushing upside down. Notice how one side has a like raised circular bit? That goes into the bar same for on the LCA, hope i explained that right
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