Thread: What did you do to your car today? Vol 2.0

Ew, pull the snot dip off there and get you some SEM trim black, you'll never look back.

SDog, what a bum on the cat. That aches. Here, kitty kitty. lol. Remain calm if the cat install presents other conflicts. What if they still cry tamper about the rear 02 pigtail? Man, then you'd need at hacked temp OE DP ass'y eh? Wait why do I think of things like that? Used to gettin bent over. Just glad they quit sniff testing right as I left Texas because I had failed but was in the grace period when the state dropped the (kinda trial) program in like '96.

I did snap a few pics round the shop today i'll ho up the ho thread I reckon. Took the GTP out for some curvys and dirt today, she's good.

isn't self etching primer used to restore a coating to bare metal before priming? thats how I've always been told.. never used it on plastic.. now maybe a high build primer to help fill in scratches.

Self etching primer would be used when painting chrome wheels too.

Not looking to take anybody to school really, but heres some facts about "self-etch" FYI.

Any self-etch available now hardly deserves the title. Try this test: Apply a wet coat of your chosen self etch. Wait a minute and wipe it off with thinner. Deos the metal look different, is it stained now? No? It should be if any acid etching has occurred. Rattle can etch is like dishwater but its better than nothing. I use it where the sun don't shine sometimes if its too time consuming to mix epoxy and the spot is small. But it has to be covered with paint, it won't stop moisture. I use SEM brand etch regularly but prefer U-POL, I think its stronger.

Before it was outlawed due to reproductive toxins and such, pro-grade etching primer was the stickin-est thing on the planet. It "bit" the metal ever so slightly. This was a fast-drying and often translucent product that used brick cleaning acid as catalyst. BAD for you, perfect for painting sanded chrome.

Epoxy is the modern solution for all Direct-to-Metal applications at pro level. Etch is the best you can do from the rattle can aisle. Check the instructions of the paint you intend to use, because in many cases as with SEM trim black, the topcoat product is recommended for use over bare metal substrates.

If you don't want something to chip, and you can't use catalyzed paint, my advice is to keep it as thin as possible. Painting chrome bumpers has worked out for me many times but I never tried a wheel. I don't think its possible to do a nice long lasting job on a plated wheel. Never seen that done, wheels see a lot of torture.

Whats your thoughts on por 15? I have used it back in 02 and its holding really well

I haven't used POR15 but Eastwood rust encapsulator is a similar product and lasts amazingly well even just by itself. I know of a truck wearing it for many years and its still black-ish and un-rusted.

We used it on a 73 camaro frame I will need to get you some pictures of it. We brushed it on and it stuck really well the only thing I will say is that it dont like brake fluid it will bubble. We had an engine stand rubbing on it for 2 years and didnt break through ththey clame that it will stop rust but I doubt that. Cover it yeah it does.

Originally Posted by spazzz

I did read something about soaking in 3 parts hydrogen peroxide and 1 part muratic acid to take the plating of the plastic.
I guess bleach works too, but slower.

If its not metal but plated plastic go easy with the sanding because if you cut through, its gonna shaggy up on ya. You might be dealing with a type of stainless, hmm. Does it hold heat like metal or like plastic? I mean if its stainless is might not attract a magnet. I'd stay away from trying to etch the plating if the grilles are plastic. Blasting would be a killer way to prep the parts but you don't want to blow them apart so that might be tough if they are plastic.

Well I have used the paint permoter it works ok as long as the part is not in the path of flying rocks

Originally Posted by ericspecullaas

We used it on a 73 camaro frame I will need to get you some pictures of it. We brushed it on and it stuck really well the only thing I will say is that it dont like brake fluid it will bubble. We had an engine stand rubbing on it for 2 years and didnt break through ththey clame that it will stop rust but I doubt that. Cover it yeah it does.

Its definitely best if a product like that is painted over, especially if exposed to well... anything including sun. I don't know what the stuff is made from but it sure is tough.

Changed mah oil today. Also watched the poor car get pelted by some decent sized hail.. no damage done though.

Last strut came today, its weird tho. The top mount is different and the finish on the strut is different gloss vs matte. Here are some pics, but other than that they look the same. I would guess that with those differences and the way the sticker looks they were put together different or one is older or something. Either way, end of the month I'll order my brakes and get progress going.

POR15 is great. We use it in the off-road world for bumpers, frames etc. Holds up great, other than the already mentioned sunshine.

Last night I pulled my right front tire so I could disconnect the ABS wire. I can handle the ABS and TRAC light's being on, but the way the ABS cycled and freaked out before was brutal. Also removed my left front fog light to replace the peeling Piaa lens cover.

Rear struts are suppose to have diferent looking mounts.

They only fit one way into the tower, they are different between left and right.

Took my mark viii for it's first drive and the water pump went out then my differential locked up on my caravan I got the diff to unlock then got a water pump and swapped it out. Easy as pie to swap the water pump. It's fixed and good to go.