Thread: help needed imediatly!

If you look at the top right of the page you will see a link for How To. Click on that and look for the write up I did on replacing the CPS. Its step by step.

You guys think maybe my plugs are the wrong ones and maybe thats why i got the random cylindewr missfire ? I'm using autolite 104's

well when i replace my spark plugs i'm thinking about getting the Autolite XP iridium Spark Plugs they r expensive but i'm sure they last longer and get much better spark.

104s are the correct plugs for your setup, what are you gapping them to? Ive used autolites for 3 years now with no problems. Are you getting P0300?

When i installed them i did it with a friend who defently knew what he was doing and i think he gapped at .50 or .55 i dont remember, they did fine for about a year until i got that code then it went downhile from there. Ill probably just need to get new plugs and wires, yeah it was a po300 i think, it was just a random cylinder missfire.

Well, I kinda had my hope pinned on the Cam sensor and I couldnt bring myself to point to the CPS, though I thought you were going to prove me wrong on that one, but even what I thought it was isnt it. So Im going to update the list, post it again and see what else we can come up with.

Heres what I got so far, I would have posted sooner but I was trying to help someone else troubleshoot, LOL.

Issue:
*Rough Idle
*Stalls
*SES Light (most likely a P0300)
*Wont restart

Work Done:
*Replace LIM gasket 3000 miles ago
*New Air Filter
*Fuel Pump can be heard activating and tested at the Schrader valve showing 42psi
*Spark at cylinders #1, 3 & 5, others were not tested
*New Spark plugs were installed, autolite 103's, gapped at 0.050".
*Replaced spark plug wires
*Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator (Note: Started after replacing the FPR, ran for a few minutes and then died, again)
*Replaced MAP sensor
*ICM was tested and shows good.
*Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor
*Replaced Camshaft Position Sensor.

Just asking because I dont remember asking before, but have you unplugged the MAF sensor just to see if it does anything different? I dont see how it could keep the car from starting, but everything that made sense has been ruled out so its time to look at some unconventional things I guess.

Also, did you ever replace that MAP sensor?

If unplugging the MAF makes no difference, the next thing to try is to pull out the IAC and then try and start it. Dont unplug it, completely remove it and then try and start it. If that doesnt work Im going to have to go back to the drawing board and see what else there could be.

The IAC is on the the throttle body along with the MAF and TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The IAC or Idle Air Control is a stepper motor that opens and closes to allow air to get to the engine when its idling (because when you're idling the throttle plate is close and the engine would get no air if not for the IAC or you would have to keep the gas pressed down for it to open enough to allow air to pass) and adjusts depending on the requirements of the engine at idle.

They are not known for going bad, Ive rarely seen one go bad, but if you remove it and the car starts and runs (probably will run a bit rough or maybe even idle high rpm's) then we know there is an issue there or with the engine getting air.

I wouldnt worry about how the noid is lighting up just yet. Could be something funky with the noid itself. But its probably worth keeping in mind for now. Does it do the same thing on other injectors?

man, this sounds bad.

does your security light come on?

check ALL the fuses and relays. one bad one can render a car a paperweight.

when you hear it sputter..does it make a bubbling sound?

did you by any chance have the front cover off? you could have possibly have gotten a bad sensor when you bought it new....

test your old sensor and new.....

go through all your plugs! also make sure that the little fine black wire that is on your coil/CPS/CKPS sensor harness is properly grounded.