the leak is on the #3 actually...but ya i am going to tow it home tommorrow and i guess tear into it and replace those gaskets...could the coolant be leaking in and causing a bad fire?
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the leak is on the #3 actually...but ya i am going to tow it home tommorrow and i guess tear into it and replace those gaskets...could the coolant be leaking in and causing a bad fire?
How would it be on #3 when the #2 compression was the lowest? That much coolant leaking into the motor may have done damage to the motor already. I know a guy that I work with has a Grandprix GT and his Upper intake had the problem of the coolant leaking into the intake, he had to get a whole new motor. Have you drained the oil pan yet to see what the oil looks like?
With what you have changed and what the results were it just doesn't add up.
i wrote the #'s down wrong it was the #3 that was low. but i pulled it all down today and almost threw up....this is what i found under my valve cover...
who would have know that you cant use coolant for you combustion?!?!
HAHAHA
cleaner? head gaskets? opinions?
Can you get some pictures of the valve train? Normally I would just say that that is just oil vapor whipped up with condensation, but good Lord that is a LOT of it. If the valve train looks the same Id say it may be time to maybe replace the head gaskets. But IF that is from coolant being dumped in the engine, I'll never understand how you didnt spin a bearing nor how come the oil never showed milky on the dipstick.
the oil is milky so i drug it home as for the bearings...i got lucky?...but ya, i will post some pics of the VT when i go out to work on it tommorrow!
My quote:
Dont mean to be a dick about anything but I told you to do a compression test MANY times over 20 days ago here and at clubgp. Sorry that happened. Stock head gaskets are some of the best, good luck. Next time instead of wasting money on sensors and what not begin with basic troubleshooting things such as checking fuel and spark. If you have that then do a compression test. Hopefully you and others learn from this experience.Do a compression test, I think I told you that over at clubgp. You have fuel and spark, so you should atleast be able to turn it over and it fire. If the engine doesnt have compression it will run like crap or not run at all. Also, get someone to pull the codes. If your coolant seems low you may have blown a headgasket.
the IACV AND the CPS needed to be replaced in any fact...ya the head gasket was blown but i would have HAD to replace those sensors sometime anyways...and it was all a learning experience for me. but anyways! recomended head gaskets? engine cleaner? i was thinking, once i get it back together do a series of cleans. (IE: #1 diesel/oil mix then change, #2 oil/ engine cleaner, #3 regular synth oil?)
For cleaning out the engine once you get it all back together, I would put new oil and a new filter on, start the car (provided it does for ya) and let it idle until its warmed up. Dont rev it up or drive it, just let it idle and get everything warmed up. Then I would drain that oil and put in new oil and a new filter.
Then I would drive it around the block a couple times with the second oil and filter, again, no heavy acceleration or anything like that. Then I would drain that oil and put in new oil and a new filter.
Now, since it seems you have probably gotten quite a bit of coolant contamination it is likely you have built up some sludge in places. So on that third oil change and filter, I would get me a bottle of Auto-RX (you can google that and get to their website) pour that in and follow the directions for it.
Auto-RX is by far the finest engine cleaner money can buy and it will get rid of any sludge and varnish build up and should clean out any remaining coolant contamination. If you buy the Auto-RX, then once you are done with the clean and rinse cycles, you can switch over to any oil and filter you like to use.
Man, that sucks. I would do what SyntheticShield said, that is good advice. If you are lucky it did not damage the mains. You could check the dealership for head gaskets and all the other gaskets. You will pay a little more, but they are worth it. Hope everything works out alright for you.
Regular dino oil is best to run for awhile anyways after something major like head gaskets or cam.
oh, i will be going to wally world to get the oil haha
so i was thinking about port/polish on the heads while they are off....any recommendations? and how much should be ported off the charger? how large can you go?
anyone? synth? bio? haha anyione?!?
Im no porting expert on head so I didnt offer any advice on that 'cause I simply dont know what would be best. I have some plans for my heads once it gets warmed back up and Ive ported a blower, but there are people on here far better than I at that sorta thing and with vastly better experience. As well I have some different goals in mind with the head work I want to do and I want to be able to prove out the concepts I have before I offer ideas and suggestions.
haha nice that is understandable! i cant wait to see what you got! what head gaskets would you recomend? i was just thinking oem? full metal any good?
My plan is to use stock felpro's for now. I dont see any reason to go to MLS. There was a post on here sometime ago where there were a few users that had quite a bit of boost running stock gaskets and I dont have any plans thus far to go that high on boost levels. Now if I go turbo that may and I stress may change, but right now thats not in the works.
very cool! so should i use any kinda rtv copper rtv on the head gaskets? or just on the rest of the gaskets?
I suppose it couldnt hurt to use copper spray, but I havent gotten that far to post the question. For what its worth, I have some in the garage I planned on using just to be on the safe side.
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