Depending on your goals....
I would for sure hone the cylinders for the new rings regardless, remove all the bearings (including the cam bearings) and have it hot tanked afterwards.
Over boring the cylinders is a waste of money for how much HP you get honestly. You could spend the same amount else where for more gains.
When you reassemble, make sure you set the crank end play before you torque the main caps. many forget...engine throws copper from the thrust bearing the crank walks against.
I have Diamond pistons, and never a problem with them. (coated too)
Make sure you FIND THE F on the tops of them, we have an off set pin, and the F on the end of the piston means front, so F end towards front of motor (belt end).
Make sure you set your ring gap accordingly. File to fit. Need help, let me know easy to do. Better to just call me instead of writing a book. LOL
Balance shaft removal...might as well. Since the motor is out, you can access the oil feed hold behind the rear engine cover and tap and plug it. Or...wait for my next product to be released...and I'll let ya test it.
I would have the entire rotating assembly professionally balanced 50%. This will insure that if and when this motor hits high RPM's it spins as smooth as possible, and extends the life of your bearings through out from any vibration. Plus, makes your balancer last longer too.
Other than that...keep things clean when you install/build and be sure to seal and lube the right bolts, studs and certain areas to avoid leaks. I recommend a big clear trash bag that something was shipped in. I got my "engine blanket" from ED a loooooooooong tie ago, and use it a lot on builds. Holds everything from a litle 4 cylinder to a V8 when its on the stand.
~F~
