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Should be a 35mm socket, not 36mm. I know I preach this place alot, but here's the set I have 7 Piece 1/2" Drive Front Wheel Drive Axle Lock-Nut Socket Set Catch it on sale and use a 20% off coupon. Works out costing about the same as 2 sockets from autozone. This is one of their items made in Taiwan, not China so it's the good stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bedwards
Not bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by RegalGS98s
Check out Harbor Freight.
they have stores in canada?
we have something called princess auto though.
Gawd. Getting old ball joints out the control arm is such a b*tch. Took a while, but I got the new ball joint and axle in. Just had to go pick up some cotter pins. I will have the car done today. Hopefully the test drive goes well!Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
The car runs and more importantly, drives! I have an exhaust leak and a metallic noise as if something is rubbing on my rotor or something. But I can get those figured out soon. I'm so glad I'm done this sh*t.
you think its safe to ask for a vid yet? or will "Murphy" show up again?
Looking at their map, it only gives choices for United States. But they do have phone and online order, just not sure if they ship to Canada, sorry. :( Today and basically every other major holiday, they have a 25% off coupon.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
Fixed the exhaust leak, and the car runs and sounds like a boss! Love it! I am just having a metallic scraping sound coming from the passenger wheel when I drive. I can't seem to simulate it when it's up on jacks and in drive. It's only under acceleration on the road. I'm not sure what it is. Hmm.
Sounds like a shot wheel bearing. Jack the car up and see if the wheel will rock top to bottom. If you have much more than a very slight play in it it's likely the bearing.
Yea I thought it might be the bearing, it's just strange that I can't simulate the noise with the car on jacks. Maybe it needs all the load on it? I'll check for play today or tomorrow. God damn, I've replaced the wheel bearings like twice each. Pieces of junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by OH4CompG
When I had my bearing go bad, you couldn't feel it by grabbing the tire. I had to do a load test. As you drive at maybe 20-30 mph, try steering the car left to right. Think they call it loading the bearing. If your steering to the left and the noise gets louder, it's your right bearing. If you steer to the right and it's louder, it's your left. You say your wheel bearings keep going bad. Are they a good brand and are you torquing the axle nut to spec? When I first had the car and had someone else change the wheel bearing, they torqued it down with an impact and it looked like they were making it kind of tight. 6 months later, the bearing failed. I changed it myself next time and torqued to spec. Torque varies by year. About 70k miles later, the bearing is still good, just have problems with the wheel speed sensor wires.
I have used decent brands for the bearings, I just have bad luck. Maybe I should re check the axle nut torque. If it wasn't to spec, would that cause this noise? Or would the bearing itself have to go bad?Quote:
Originally Posted by RegalGS98s
I beilieve it's the lube that becomes a problem with replacment wheel hubs.
When I replaced my factory part at 160k, the new one was figging TIGHT to turn,
so I thought: "I Better go slow for the first few SHORT trips and let it cool down so the lube does not become damaged from the heat during "break-in". I believe the life expectanly of the part (wheel hub) is greatly reduced if they are not "broken-in"
properly. As with any highly precision, high load mechanical device, final machining
of the mating surfaces is when the part is put into service.
I don't mean to be a dick... but really...
is this necessary? how did this thread get to 22 pages?
i tried skimming through it and I duno man.. it was frustrating to say the least.
good luck with the build tho
Yeah, there's a lot in this post. Just read the first and last couple pages. I asked him to summarize it here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/scrap...s-2-48926.html There's only 2 pages there currently, lol. It's almost confusing which one of these posts to post in.Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerbinski
U made sure when you installed the cam and timing chain it was on tdc on cylinder 1 right
Nevermind didn't see this was a long thread my bad
I just read all of this, and now im thanking god. because i am in the current process of a rebuild and when i was swapping my 105 springs with zzp retainers and locks, i did also have them in upside down. LUCKILY my brother came home and looked over my work and said "you know you have the locks in backwards right?" it is def possible to put it in backwards, especially if it is your first time doing springs (like it was for me). im still waiting on a N* and wideband before i finish my build, and then i will fire it up for the first time. after reading this thread, I found it to be very imformative on what to check and make sure is right before starting the motor. I am almost 99% everything is good to go.
You sure you don't want to mangle some pushrods? It's fun. Especially the second time you do it. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Hixc