Thread: AFR and Timing Tuning (02 Regal GS 223k!!!)

Originally Posted by darkhorizon

No, you should never do this.



Maf tuning in this manner gets you nowhere, other than a janky ass maf curve based on whatever your o2 sensor, engine diagnostics, evap status, egr status, air temperature, feels like displaying in the LTFT at the time.



You want to leave the LQ4 file completely stock if at all possible. Changes here are the absolute worst place to make adjustments for "mystery" things being wrong with your tune. The maf sensors almost never have variance from car to car unless you have an obvious air filter issue... which I usually handle in the IFR value, as its the mathmatically easiest way to adjust a logarithmic equation that is the maf curve.



Its not preference or anything.. tuning the maf is just wrong if you have a stock maf sensor. If you have trouble with your commanded afr matching actual afr in the WB, the easiest way to adjust for this error is in PE, as it is not controlled by the narrowband.

That is what I have to work with. If this matters I have no egr or evap.

So I should put the lq4 maf table and don't touch it and then what?

How do I go about getting my trims in check? What histogram would have to made for that? Don't a lot of people modifty the maf table to get the trims in check? That is why they do this, or no?

For afr at wot which PE would I modify if not the maf like others? As seen are stock vs what its at now. Some say do it this way some say do it that way. Especially the tuner guide contradicts some.

You read made sure you smooth your maf after changes.

I would like to know how you approach this type of thing. I am not debating with you.