Thread: Hp tuner noob question?

I could go with that but first i have a question on the wideband and hp tuners. The wideband on a DMM reads 10.6-11.2 at idle, thats going buy the voltages on the chart that came with the wideband. Its is mouned with in 2 inches of teh narrow band in the exhaust. I have smoked the exhaust and sealed it just for ****s and grins at the header clamps. If i use the AEM wide band in hp tuners it sayes i am idleing at 16.0, so i checked the voltage with the DDM and when i hook it up it jumps to 3.02 volts. Did a wideband offset and that is how i got to where i am on the wide band. I did test the hp box witha AA batery like bill at hp tuners told me to do and it reads correct. The narrow band is a new oem sensor. So if that is correct than i must not understand. I have watched it while driving and at 9.4 and down it locks the narow band and 900MV +.

Mid 11's while bumming around town?

Da fuq, it should be still trying to stay around 14.7.

To maf tune, create the custom pid, set PE to 100% and go log 25 minutes of driving, get as far into the gas without seeing KR and then save the data. Copy all the way to 7,000hz and paste by half into the maf table. Do that until LTFT are close to zero. Then start working on WOT fueling.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Mid 11's while bumming around town?

Da fuq, it should be still trying to stay around 14.7.

To maf tune, create the custom pid, set PE to 100% and go log 25 minutes of driving, get as far into the gas without seeing KR and then save the data. Copy all the way to 7,000hz and paste by half into the maf table. Do that until LTFT are close to zero. Then start working on WOT fueling.

i have done this and with that said, when i get to 2000-2400, mpd reading above 73 is when it goes way rich. I watched it on the way to work today. I know to do a wot tune after but i am not that concerned with that know. i want to get it driving right under normal conditions first. That is why i am questioning how to fix this.

After looking at the table display it is at 12.7 wheh it goes rich vrs. 14.7 at 11 AFR

Zero out all the adders. Except the add vs tps.

Set the add vs rpm to zero and same as the AFR correction in the spark table.

Then set your commanded AFR in the baseAFR vs ETC, then set your timing to 15-16 for WOT in the high/low tables.

No.

The car is always trying to stay at 14.7 when not getting into PE.

Set the commaned AFR to what YOU want it to be for WOT. Like 11.4 - 11.5.

When you scroll the mouse over each box in each table it tells you what each one does. Setting it to 14.7 would blow it up. A couple of the tuning threads on here give you the bases of tuning, but arent always 100% correct.

engine > fuel > power enrich

You must have the hp tuners set to advanced, so it shows you everything.

Look at the tables though.

It may be commanding 12.4 but look at what its adding to that. Look at the add vs rpm, as the rpms rise its subtracting a number from 12.4 to give you a new afr commanded. Thats why I was saying you should zero out those adders and set the afr to 11.5.

Thats only in PE, you dont enter PE until whatever you set it to for Throttle %.

Otherwise its still going off the regular tables for normal driving.

No?

I guess I dont know what you are talking about, I've never touched the delay.