service manual ahhoooy
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I wanted to post this up. A guy on gmls4 said he thinks that this is my problem
Sorry been busy, from what I see your problem is the passenger side (leaky side) inner CV joint and possibly the outshaft bearing (7B) and thrust washer (715) in the attached diagrams... of course the seal will have to be changed again (4)
The Stabiliser endlinks should be changed as a set/ same time, if they were changed at the same time, one side has no grease fittings
LCA bushings look ok but they are starting to carbonise you should plan on changing within 20000 miles or so.
And I can't get the pics to show so I'll post them later
^^^^ anyone else have some input on what the above guy mentioned
Something to try...swap rear wheel up front and see if the wobble exist
OK on a topic that's not wobble I got my tranny cooler from TEP today. Talk about nice! Pics coming later
Here she is. This is the larger cooler that's a complete radiator bypass with remade brackets to bolt right up to the frame for easy installation. It is 6 inches tall I'm sure the 4 inch one would of bee fine but I figured go big or go home. The AN fittings on the cooler its self have been welded into place so no chance of leaks.
Over all this will definitely be a great upgrade from stock
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will those an fittingsscrew into the transmission return port? looking for a way to get rid of the weeping drip i get randomly
Son of a Bit*h my leaking sun roof problem has returned. Well time to take my interior apart again. I'll probably buy a brand new seal and use the window cocking to fix it more permanently this time. Damn things really pis*ing me off.
Where is it leaking? And it's caulking
If you want a good seal use 3m window weld and use hose clamps or lock wire on the drain tubes to make sure they never come loose
Yea I already have hose clamps on the drains. Did that the first time around. I think I'm going to take the full roof off and completely redo the seal and have the fabric on the inside of the roof cleaned cause its got water stains now
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