Thread: How to: Remove an axle

Hmmnm axle could be off, although I'd usually trust a Napa axle more than most. Ensure the axle nut is snugged up and see if the issue seems to happen more when lightly turning left/right.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Hmmnm axle could be off, although I'd usually trust a Napa axle more than most. Ensure the axle nut is snugged up and see if the issue seems to happen more when lightly turning left/right.

Hmmm, should the axle nut torque be 118 ft/lbs for a 99 GP? Vibration was independent of turning, occurring going in a straight line but only while accelerating and pronounced above 40 mph. Thanks again for creating this thread.

EDIT: Gotta add, just got off the phone with NAPA. Was told to bring it in to exchange for another new one. That's almost painless, lol.

Correct the spec is 118 ft lbs, Let us know if the new axle fixes your problem.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Hmmnm axle could be off, although I'd usually trust a Napa axle more than most. Ensure the axle nut is snugged up and see if the issue seems to happen more when lightly turning left/right.

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Correct the spec is 118 ft lbs, Let us know if the new axle fixes your problem.

No odd sounds when turning at any degree of angle or speed. But, found 2 things today. Axle nut wasn't at the specified torque, so corrected that. Took a short test ride, found improvement in the ride but still had a slight vibration. Pulled both wheels off and did a hands on check of both CV shafts.

New one, the inner half had some play where it slid slightly back and forth on the trans stub spline but wouldn't pull out. However, that was done with the outer half still secured in the hub.

Old shaft, was like a rock with no movement at all.

This weekend I'll be removing the new CV shaft to see if;
Either, the retaining ring is actually still in place where it belongs, or if the machined groove for the retaining ring was cut correctly into the female spline of the inner CV half by checking it against the measurements I took today on the removed OEM shaft.

Originally Posted by red bearded goat

No odd sounds when turning at any degree of angle or speed. But, found 2 things today. Axle nut wasn't at the specified torque, so corrected that. Took a short test ride, found improvement in the ride but still had a slight vibration. Pulled both wheels off and did a hands on check of both CV shafts.

New one, the inner half had some play where it slid slightly back and forth on the trans stub spline but wouldn't pull out. However, that was done with the outer half still secured in the hub.

Old shaft, was like a rock with no movement at all.

This weekend I'll be removing the new CV shaft to see if;
Either, the retaining ring is actually still in place where it belongs, or if the machined groove for the retaining ring was cut correctly into the female spline of the inner CV half by checking it against the measurements I took today on the removed OEM shaft.

this is just a stupid question.....tires balanced? orrrrr, do they have uneven wear from being out of alignment?

Originally Posted by Shiftingshaddow

this is just a stupid question.....tires balanced? orrrrr, do they have uneven wear from being out of alignment?

Simple answer, tires are new and "I" installed them the week before installing the new CV shaft. That's when I found the inner boot had failed. Both discarded front tires had even wear, no issue with position of the steering wheel being off center and the car tracks straight rollin down the road.

I understand your intention is to help and your question is relavant, but if you read all my previous posts you would have read the vibration started AFTER installing a new CV shaft from Napa and only occurs under acceleration. No vibration when my foot is off the go pedal.... its smooth as silk then.

its really easiest to take the outer tie rod from the inner. dont move the lock nut so you can put it back the same. or mark the threads with a sharpy. unbolt the struts. 2 bolts. nuts are 22mm, 21mm. i've encountered both. the knuckle can be turned and pushed down this way. dont even have to take rotor or brake off this way. you can get a small pry or claw/ crowbar, and put it in the end of a long pipe to pop the driver axle out. dont even have to bend down or push hard. i use the breaker bar and tap it with hammer against the cup on the pass axle. doesnt have to be hit hard. anything long and skinny works.

the axles sort of clip in place when the lock goes in. you will hear it. it doesnt leak when seated. at least i've never seen one leak tranny fluid.

doing anything trying to take off the knuckle is hard because the road and elements weather the studs (like on outer tie rod) so the nut doesnt want to unthread without heat, torque, and or pb blaster if you are lucky. i just cut them off anymore.

oh, well, i'm sorry to ruin you're day.

This thread was a life saver for me today.

Glad to hear it. Parrty on Garth

Glad it helped...

How did it save your ass though, I could see it saving on some sneaker tread...lol

I replaced the passenger side cv shaft on my '04 comp g this past weekend and I'm concerned that I didn't get the new shaft in all the way. It's my first axel replacement and I did a lot of Googling first Almost everything says there will be a snap or click when the new shaft is in all the way. Mine just slide in and stopped. All the pounding, pushing and wrestling in the world didn't make it move. I was so unsure I tapped it back out and tried again, same thing.

There is about 3/4" between the tranny and the housing on the shaft. The drivers side is much tighter, 1/4". I compared it to the old one and based on corrosion it appears to have had a similar depth. I have attached pictures.

Sorry if this sounds like I'm over thinking this but I always suspect the worst when a job goes to smoothly.






BTW thanks for a great write up

Yes..it's in. That is the correct amount of axle to stick out.. it's decieving.

Yes. Did when mine went bad