You want the "V" EVENLY brought down to the "H" bar...bolts and squares removed at the top. I'm not sure if maybe your car just hated you but I'd like to see pictures of your blower that CAUSED KR...and the one that doesn't CAUSE KR.
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You want the "V" EVENLY brought down to the "H" bar...bolts and squares removed at the top. I'm not sure if maybe your car just hated you but I'd like to see pictures of your blower that CAUSED KR...and the one that doesn't CAUSE KR.
the problem with this port is that i'm fairly sure youre not supposed to make the outlet any bigger besides extending the V down and taking out those square notches. you dont want to open it up and lose the ability to gain boost. you just want to open it up a little bit, smooth it out, and help with the transition from the rotors to the lower intake.
the one that doesnt looks like a ZZP, the one that does, doesnt match the original angle.
I did what bio mentioned..
I think if you have a CAI, P&P T/B, and headers porting your S/C would be a good thing and not lose boost. Able to get more air in and out. And a smaller pully to pull in more air. Makes sense to me, but I'm new to S/Cers. Old muscle car guy from the 70,s.
lowering boost numbers is a sign of either lost blower efficiency or increased flow through the engine.
granted the pulley stays the same.
I had a case to play around with a few days ago and decided to practice porting it... I used a router with regular wood bits and took out the big parts in many layers then smoothed the whole underside and opened up the V then got my 45* bit and beveled the edge. It turned out really well, almost looks like CNC but not quite as perfect.
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Did you check to see if the angle still matches the rotors?
also, is that your needle bearings full of metal shavings? If so, you're probably going to want to replace those.
Last edited by matt5112; 01-17-2011 at 02:47 PM.
X2 on the needle bearings.
Also...porting a GenV is worthless...bench dyno proven.
It matches the angle of the rotors pretty well. This is just an extra gen 3 case, I have a complete L32 w/gen V in my car now and another gen V on the shelf so I'm not gonna be using this, I may work on the inlet next and pop those bearings out an sell it or I may just take it in for scrap.
I'm not gonna hog the gen V out like this one, I really just need to remove the H bar for my intercooler and I will probably smooth all the rough casting areas out. This was really only to get practice and mainly to see if it would even work... If anyone else wants to try it with a router I used all standard grade wood bits just at very low speed so they didn't heat up and burn
I gotcha.
I believe polishing the inlet/smoothing the outlet like you mentioned would be the only thing to do...basically diminishing the imperfections from the factory, even though there are few to be had on that blower. Steigmeyer (or however you spell that), that ports the Cobra blowers...tried their funky outlet "rain drop" or tear shaped outlet...and it actually lost a decent amount of boost from it.
No...any '04+ car has the GenV...leave it alone unless you have TOTALLY ran out of things to do to it.
Check my thread in my signature...there are a few cheap mods to do.
So about this differing outlet shapes...
This is what it looked like before:
Heres what my blower outlet looks like now:
I have less KR with this blower on, same rotors and snout as before though.
No other changes were made.
For the current shape all I did was continue the triangle up a tad bit and down to the bottom. Then a chamfer.
Still matches the curvature of the rotor which seems to be the key to efficiency.
Even after comparing...I still don't see much of any difference. I bet you had a vacuum leak and resealing it got rid of your KR![]()
2 questions: first question is does the 2 bolt holes matter (the part at the base of the triange), i got scared when i started cutting the tabs off and figured ill ask even though i see the final product in these pics
and second question: is this a gen iii and does not running an ic harm anything if i cut the h bridge?
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You can just shave the threaded holes off it will be fine. Also if you have no plans going intercooled leave the h bridge. If you do trim it off you will need to cut the gasket.
you should also cut open the LIM to match if you take out the h-bar. i had none on mine and i also had bolts sticking into the outlet, i never cut them down. didnt notice any ill effects.
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