Thread: Questions as I work through LIM job...

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  1. #21 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    the 2 yellow o rings would be for the lim to sc only i guess.

    the other two black o rings next to the yellow ones look to be for the coolant elbow. but its best to just replace the whole elbow. and they come with new o rings.

    the t stat, ive heard of people just using the black t stat ring and it seals. i used both, the ring and a paper gasket. no leaks so why not use it.
    Interesting - good to know that using both gaskets worked for you on the thermostat housing/thermostat seal. I guess worst case scenario, it starts leaking but at least it's easy to access. Still no idea on that blue cylinder looking piece, eh? I know, I know....
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  2. #22 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    oh, no frigging idea what thats for, i know i didnt take anything like that off my car. sorry, i kept forgetting about it. lol today was a long wet day, im not even settled in yet.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #23 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Too bad felpro doesn't include part names or some sort of parts list with these multi-part kits. That would take a lot of mystery out of this process, for sure.
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  4. #24 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    GTP Level Member FriboRage's Avatar
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    There usually is a listing on the box, if you look at the label.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G: Intake, F+R plogs + downpipe, 1.7 YT Rollers, Overkill, F-body front brakes, drilled/slotted r1 concept rotors.
    Sport Edition Kv5 18x8
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  5. #25 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Well... I was just about positive I'd looked over everything with a fine toothed comb but you are right, there is a list (no pictures next to the items, but a list nonetheless).

    2-Intake Manifold
    2-Intake Manifold End Seal
    2-Intake Manifold End Seal (not a typo, there are thick and thin ones, light and dark respectively)
    1-Water Outlet
    1-Water Outlet
    6-Fuel Rail O-ring
    1-Oil Filter Adaptor
    1-RTV Black - Tube
    2-Heater Inlet
    1-MAP Sensor O-ring
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  6. #26 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    oh, no frigging idea what thats for, i know i didnt take anything like that off my car. sorry, i kept forgetting about it. lol today was a long wet day, im not even settled in yet.
    It looks like the seal for the MAP sensor.



    And at least on the newer 3800's, they just use the rubber thermostat gasket. Won't hurt to use both I suppose. It will only leak with just the rubber one if you don't get all the corrosion out of the groove.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  7. #27 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Nice - that makes sense.

    In other news, as I was re-inspecting the felpro kit, I noticed this. Ah!!!! Another return to deal with before reassembly can begin. Some of the aluminum edges are pretty sharp on these metal gaskets and I bet that gouge happened during shipping or packing. They need to put another piece of paper between those two gaskets to protect them.

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  8. #28 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i think thats ok, thats a bolt hole not a coolant port or intake port. unless you got them local and can get them swap em out easy enough.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #29 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'd put a dab of black rtv over the black gasket where the scrape is, it won't cause an issue.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  10. #30 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    You are good to go on the metal gasket, Like Navy said.. just put a little blob there.

    On your two sets of end seals. Here's the reason
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ht=design+easy

    To answer your next question... I've turned a wrench or two on a 3800 in the past.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  11. #31 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Thanks for the clarification on the gasket. I guess since so many of my bolts were covered in goo when they came out, I'm being very cautious about every bit of mating surface.

    Thanks for the explanation on the 1st vs 2nd gen, as well. Learning a lot on this repair!
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  12. #32 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    As you might have been able to guess, this is a slow-paced job that I'm picking away at as I have small nuggets of free time that open up. Just to be certain, is this LIM clean enough by most standards? I've seen other DIY pictures and most people seem to be able to get the LIM cleaner than this (how do they do it?), but I've used a stiff nylon brush w/ mineral spirits as well as brake cleaner, as well as razor blade. However, the black/gray is still there. I don't notice a bump or transition when running a finger over the clean metal onto the darker areas, but those areas also don't feel as smooth as metal. I just don't want those to prevent a proper seal.

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  13. #33 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i just scraped mine hard with a new razor blades. if thats just stains on the metal and its smooth run it.

    you could try a scotch bright pad too. make by 3m. you can get then at the super market where they sell kitchen dish cleaning stuff.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #34 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    As I clean them.. I wipe off any oil/residue with brake cleaner and a rag. The stains in the metal from the old gasket show right back up. Wipe til the rag comes back clean, then you know it's clean...even if it doesn't look it.

    If you saw a clean manifold in my pics..it was probably soaked with purple power and then pressure washed. I'd do 4-5 manifolds at one time.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  15. #35 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Wooh! Back to together and running again, no leaks that I can identify. Thanks for all the help, fellas! Interesting note about the replacement dorman intake manifold... there is an extra ridge of plastic, not found on the OEM manifold, just in front of the MAP/PCV area that prevents a tiny bracket (used for holding a clip that secures a large wire loom routed over the serpentine belt area and toward the battery) from being installed. Ended up just taking the angle grinder to the bracket and it fits fine now, but I hadn't seen anyone else encounter this so hopefully this will help someone else down the road.

    Onto the next job... CV axles / halfshafts. Thankfully this car has just about zero rust. Looks like a new tie rod end on the passenger side at the very least during this job... do people replace the boot alone or is a whole new end installed?



    Bill - I see you have a nice writeup on removing the axles, will be checking that out. Since the cv boots have been spitting grease for a couple thousand miles, I'm wondering how urgently these need to be replaced? I want to do them quickly, but the mrs would also like to be able to drive her car again (can't imagine why ) since I've had it out of commission for quite some time doing the oil pan gasket then the LIM job. I wonder if a couple weeks of driving would be dangerous in any way, because if it is, I don't want to risk it. Currently I've not noticed any clicking or vibration whilst driving. Also, is replacing the transmission seal recommended when doing new cv axles or do most leave it be if it appears undamaged. Are there any brands in particular to avoid when getting replacement cv axles? If it's driveable for a little longer, I don't mind buying online and getting a more reliable brand than what may be available at local parts stores.
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  16. #36 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    Did you use the dormant HELP Aluminum coolant elbows? If so did you change the o rings on them?

    The CV shafts are easy, I just replaced mine not to long ago. Just make sure you have a slide hammer..
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  17. #37 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    This video is good help for the CV axles.

    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwRrFz3RzTQ
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  18. #38 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    There is absolutely no reason to change the o-rings on coolant elbows. If you think so, then you are installing them differently than most people.

    I'd say if the axles aren't clicking badly on turns, you'll be ok for a bit.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  19. #39 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
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    I used the Dorman aluminum coolant elbows and the o-rings that came on them (slightly lubricated them when installing). Have you heard that they are inferior?

    Bill - thanks for the confirmation on the o-rings and cv axles. For the heck of it, I called around to a couple shops to see what it would cost to have it done by someone else, just for the sake of time savings. My enthusiasm for DIY is always rekindled by that exercise... shops wanting from $366 up to $550 for both pass/driver side replacement.
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  20. #40 Re: Questions as I work through LIM job... 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    Yeah, I always chuckle at axle install prices...or most anything for that matter.
    Sold WBody's: '03 Blue GTP/'98 Green GTP/'98 Silver GT/'05 GXP
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