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Interesting - good to know that using both gaskets worked for you on the thermostat housing/thermostat seal. I guess worst case scenario, it starts leaking but at least it's easy to access. Still no idea on that blue cylinder looking piece, eh? I know, I know.... :th_beatdeadhorse:Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
oh, no frigging idea what thats for, i know i didnt take anything like that off my car. sorry, i kept forgetting about it. lol today was a long wet day, im not even settled in yet.
Too bad felpro doesn't include part names or some sort of parts list with these multi-part kits. That would take a lot of mystery out of this process, for sure.
There usually is a listing on the box, if you look at the label.
Well... I was just about positive I'd looked over everything with a fine toothed comb but you are right, there is a list (no pictures next to the items, but a list nonetheless).
2-Intake Manifold
2-Intake Manifold End Seal
2-Intake Manifold End Seal (not a typo, there are thick and thin ones, light and dark respectively)
1-Water Outlet
1-Water Outlet
6-Fuel Rail O-ring
1-Oil Filter Adaptor
1-RTV Black - Tube
2-Heater Inlet
1-MAP Sensor O-ring
It looks like the seal for the MAP sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
http://i.ebayimg.com/11/!BnVIQ%28!!W...q!wyQ~~_35.JPG
And at least on the newer 3800's, they just use the rubber thermostat gasket. Won't hurt to use both I suppose. It will only leak with just the rubber one if you don't get all the corrosion out of the groove.
Nice - that makes sense.
In other news, as I was re-inspecting the felpro kit, I noticed this. Ah!!!! Another return to deal with before reassembly can begin. Some of the aluminum edges are pretty sharp on these metal gaskets and I bet that gouge happened during shipping or packing. They need to put another piece of paper between those two gaskets to protect them.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ket%20Gash.jpg
i think thats ok, thats a bolt hole not a coolant port or intake port. unless you got them local and can get them swap em out easy enough.
Yeah, I'd put a dab of black rtv over the black gasket where the scrape is, it won't cause an issue.
You are good to go on the metal gasket, Like Navy said.. just put a little blob there.
On your two sets of end seals. Here's the reason
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ht=design+easy
To answer your next question... I've turned a wrench or two on a 3800 in the past. :th_laugh-lol3:
Thanks for the clarification on the gasket. I guess since so many of my bolts were covered in goo when they came out, I'm being very cautious about every bit of mating surface.
Thanks for the explanation on the 1st vs 2nd gen, as well. Learning a lot on this repair!
As you might have been able to guess, this is a slow-paced job that I'm picking away at as I have small nuggets of free time that open up. Just to be certain, is this LIM clean enough by most standards? I've seen other DIY pictures and most people seem to be able to get the LIM cleaner than this (how do they do it?), but I've used a stiff nylon brush w/ mineral spirits as well as brake cleaner, as well as razor blade. However, the black/gray is still there. I don't notice a bump or transition when running a finger over the clean metal onto the darker areas, but those areas also don't feel as smooth as metal. I just don't want those to prevent a proper seal.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...th_LIM%20A.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...th_LIM%20B.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...th_LIM%20C.jpg
i just scraped mine hard with a new razor blades. if thats just stains on the metal and its smooth run it.
you could try a scotch bright pad too. make by 3m. you can get then at the super market where they sell kitchen dish cleaning stuff.
As I clean them.. I wipe off any oil/residue with brake cleaner and a rag. The stains in the metal from the old gasket show right back up. Wipe til the rag comes back clean, then you know it's clean...even if it doesn't look it.
If you saw a clean manifold in my pics..it was probably soaked with purple power and then pressure washed. I'd do 4-5 manifolds at one time.
Wooh! Back to together and running again, no leaks that I can identify. Thanks for all the help, fellas! Interesting note about the replacement dorman intake manifold... there is an extra ridge of plastic, not found on the OEM manifold, just in front of the MAP/PCV area that prevents a tiny bracket (used for holding a clip that secures a large wire loom routed over the serpentine belt area and toward the battery) from being installed. Ended up just taking the angle grinder to the bracket and it fits fine now, but I hadn't seen anyone else encounter this so hopefully this will help someone else down the road.
Onto the next job... CV axles / halfshafts. Thankfully this car has just about zero rust. Looks like a new tie rod end on the passenger side at the very least during this job... do people replace the boot alone or is a whole new end installed?
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_Pass%20A.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_Pass%20B.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_Pass%20C.jpg
Bill - I see you have a nice writeup on removing the axles, will be checking that out. Since the cv boots have been spitting grease for a couple thousand miles, I'm wondering how urgently these need to be replaced? I want to do them quickly, but the mrs would also like to be able to drive her car again (can't imagine why :th_winking:) since I've had it out of commission for quite some time doing the oil pan gasket then the LIM job. I wonder if a couple weeks of driving would be dangerous in any way, because if it is, I don't want to risk it. Currently I've not noticed any clicking or vibration whilst driving. Also, is replacing the transmission seal recommended when doing new cv axles or do most leave it be if it appears undamaged. Are there any brands in particular to avoid when getting replacement cv axles? If it's driveable for a little longer, I don't mind buying online and getting a more reliable brand than what may be available at local parts stores.
Did you use the dormant HELP Aluminum coolant elbows? If so did you change the o rings on them?
The CV shafts are easy, I just replaced mine not to long ago. Just make sure you have a slide hammer..
This video is good help for the CV axles.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwRrFz3RzTQ
There is absolutely no reason to change the o-rings on coolant elbows. If you think so, then you are installing them differently than most people.
I'd say if the axles aren't clicking badly on turns, you'll be ok for a bit.
I used the Dorman aluminum coolant elbows and the o-rings that came on them (slightly lubricated them when installing). Have you heard that they are inferior?
Bill - thanks for the confirmation on the o-rings and cv axles. For the heck of it, I called around to a couple shops to see what it would cost to have it done by someone else, just for the sake of time savings. My enthusiasm for DIY is always rekindled by that exercise... shops wanting from $366 up to $550 for both pass/driver side replacement.
Yeah, I always chuckle at axle install prices...or most anything for that matter.