Wooh! Back to together and running again, no leaks that I can identify. Thanks for all the help, fellas! Interesting note about the replacement dorman intake manifold... there is an extra ridge of plastic, not found on the OEM manifold, just in front of the MAP/PCV area that prevents a tiny bracket (used for holding a clip that secures a large wire loom routed over the serpentine belt area and toward the battery) from being installed. Ended up just taking the angle grinder to the bracket and it fits fine now, but I hadn't seen anyone else encounter this so hopefully this will help someone else down the road.
Onto the next job... CV axles / halfshafts. Thankfully this car has just about zero rust. Looks like a new tie rod end on the passenger side at the very least during this job... do people replace the boot alone or is a whole new end installed?
Bill - I see you have a nice writeup on removing the axles, will be checking that out. Since the cv boots have been spitting grease for a couple thousand miles, I'm wondering how urgently these need to be replaced? I want to do them quickly, but the mrs would also like to be able to drive her car again (can't imagine why) since I've had it out of commission for quite some time doing the oil pan gasket then the LIM job. I wonder if a couple weeks of driving would be dangerous in any way, because if it is, I don't want to risk it. Currently I've not noticed any clicking or vibration whilst driving. Also, is replacing the transmission seal recommended when doing new cv axles or do most leave it be if it appears undamaged. Are there any brands in particular to avoid when getting replacement cv axles? If it's driveable for a little longer, I don't mind buying online and getting a more reliable brand than what may be available at local parts stores.
