Thread: prepping for power upgrades

Start with headers and a 3.4 then, see how the car takes it. You already are trying to contact Will and know about a step cooler plugs and to be running 91+ octane.

So thats all there is to it.

If any maintence items need to be done, do them. Clean the MAF and TB, new trans fluid and filter, new fuel filter etc etc etc.

I will tell you that the diodes all will provide the same nominal .7 volts drop from your electrical system to your alternator's voltage sense input that will make them raise the system output voltage by that much. The voltage ratings indicate the maximum peak inverse voltage (PIV) that the diodes will withstand when they are being used to rectify AC into DC current. All individual silicon rectifier diodes have a nominal 0.7 volt drop through them, regardless of voltage and or current rating. Using them in an automotive "voltage booster" simply provides a fixed voltage drop in a DC circuit that won't have much PIV to deal with, so any of them should be OK. Using the highest PIV rated diode, since you have a range of them available, would be the most conservative design.

That said, I will also tell you NOT to screw around with putting a "voltage booster " mod on a car electrical system. It very likely damage your vehicle's electrical and electronics components. Automotive electrical and electronic components are all designed to operate at a nominal 13.8 volts with the engine running. The main reason that voltage was picked is to ensure an adequate rate of charge to a 6 cell lead acid battery at a voltage that will not result in an overcharge condition. Your car electrical system's voltage regulator will maintain few tenths of a volt around that. Adding a voltage booster diode will result in it regulating about 0.7 volt higher for each diode placed in series with the alternator voltage sensing input. Only reason to fake out the system into running at higher than design voltage range is if want you to to overcharge and boil all of the electrolyte out of your battery, overheat your alternator and all of your car's electronics, and possibly fry something expensive.

Chris B, Electrical Engineer
Stonington, CT
Bog Stock 2001 GP SE 3100, 95K

You are flipping the rubber bushing inside the dog bones. If you look at the pictures in the write up in the how to section you can see the difference after being flipped, it just allows less movement.

It's still the same exact rubber bushing, how can vibrations change?

It only reducing the motors movement front and back upon heavy throttle, you'd never notice any sort of change in vibration or noise. It's not like putting a poly mount in it's place.

Assuming you are rolling the engine forward a bit, you are taking up a strain that makes the connections between the engine and the frame stiffer through the dogbones, and there will be an increase in vibration transmitted across the joints. You will also be compressing the lower engine to frame mounts on the front side of the engine, making them stiffer, which means more vibration transmission through them. For the engine mounts to be most effective at vibration isolation, they should not be over compressed in one direction or the other. I am assuming the design length of the dogbones was set so that all of the engine mounts are properly loaded for the most effective vibration isolation.

If you really have a concern about excessive torque roll of the engine, you could install a snubber bracket of some sort that limits the amount of movement to a small hard stopped clearance, but would keep the mounts properly loaded except under extreme torque loads, to keep vibration levels down most of the time.

How about you read this, then you'll know exactly what I am talking about and how you are over thinking this easy mod.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ding-Your-3800!