Thread: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH!

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  1. #1 Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    SE Level Member rell2005's Avatar
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    Plain n Simple. Got a pretty rusty fuel filter. The threaded end doesn't budge. So I sprayed it pretty heavily with some WD40 and gonna
    let it sit overnight hoping to break threw the rust tomorrow. Any suggestions? Anything else I can do? Alternatives? Hit me.
    Top-Swapped GT, SLP headers, 3.2 Pulley, Stage 2 Intercooler
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  2. #2 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    SE Level Member jjmitch87's Avatar
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    subbing to this because when i rotated my tires i looked at my fuel filter and that thing just LOOKS 100% corroded including the lines.
    2001 Grand Prix GTP, silver w/ black hood, silver bullit 17s
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  3. #3 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
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    Hold the nut on the line and spin the filter off.
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
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  4. #4 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    I live here. 02NavyBlue's Avatar
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    Mine looked like this (not original) and I still had a hard time getting it off.


    You're going to need a flare nut wrench to get it off, no exceptions. Use it on the fuel line side on the right, and hold it still. Turning it will twist the whole line. Then put a wrench on the filter and pull like mad to try to get it off. On the filter only.
    2006 Grand Prix GT S/C 109k - Modded Transgo Shift Kit, Gutted Airbox, Dash Cam, and Inlays. Retros soon to come.
    2002 Grand Prix GT N/A 127k - Same as 06 Plus: Trans Cooler, DIY Aux Input, LED lighting, Suspension Upgrades, Tint, Retrofits.
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  5. #5 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if you dont have a line wrench for the line nut, use vise grips tight as hell, dont turn the line nut, hold it where it is, then put another wrench on the filter's hex nut there, ( you se it in the pic up there) crank on the filter, while holding the line nut still. if the line nut turns, the line will twist, and well, then your fixing a broke fuel line.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Put vice grips on the nut that are as tight as Scottydoggs can make them. That's way past friggin tight btw. Unbolt the 10mm holding the filter bracket and get the bracket off it. Then spin the filter while the vice grips don't move.

    My car has 226K (yeah I'm catching you Scott) and it's likely never had a filter. Unless it was done before 64K miles ...cause that's how old the air filter was. I run it to nothing (actually ran out one day) all the time... she purrs.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  7. #7 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    my filter is ugly too, never been changed by me, 227,000 and its still running. ive never ran it out of gas yet. im sure ive been close tho lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    SE Level Member rell2005's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Put vice grips on the nut that are as tight as Scottydoggs can make them. That's way past friggin tight btw. Unbolt the 10mm holding the filter bracket and get the bracket off it. Then spin the filter while the vice grips don't move.

    My car has 226K (yeah I'm catching you Scott) and it's likely never had a filter. Unless it was done before 64K miles ...cause that's how old the air filter was. I run it to nothing (actually ran out one day) all the time... she purrs.
    Tried the Vice grips method just now. Wont move. Line replacement?
    Top-Swapped GT, SLP headers, 3.2 Pulley, Stage 2 Intercooler
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  9. #9 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    SE Level Member rell2005's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    if you dont have a line wrench for the line nut, use vise grips tight as hell, dont turn the line nut, hold it where it is, then put another wrench on the filter's hex nut there, ( you se it in the pic up there) crank on the filter, while holding the line nut still. if the line nut turns, the line will twist, and well, then your fixing a broke fuel line.
    Tried the Vice grips method just now and it wont move. Line replacement im guessing?
    Top-Swapped GT, SLP headers, 3.2 Pulley, Stage 2 Intercooler
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  10. #10 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    put your big boy pants on and crank on that filter till it breaks free, are you turning it the right way right? seen that before lol

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  11. #11 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    SE Level Member rell2005's Avatar
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    LMAO! Big boy pants...Yea Im turning to the right. I tripled check to make sure I was. People are suggesting PB blaster...may get some of that
    Top-Swapped GT, SLP headers, 3.2 Pulley, Stage 2 Intercooler
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  12. #12 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    GTP Level Member FriboRage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rell2005 View Post
    LMAO! Big boy pants...Yea Im turning to the right. I tripled check to make sure I was. People are suggesting PB blaster...may get some of that
    Just wanna put this out there, WD-40 is a lubricant and a water displacer, and it'll probably dissolve rust, but it's not much of a penetrating oil... it wont do much for nuts and bolts that are rusted on as it wont get into the threads and such very well.

    Get either PB blaster or Liquid Wrench.

    ZZP actually had an article where they recorded how much torque was needed to remove a stuck bolt with various lubricants.. WD-40 was the hardest to remove... PB Blaster came in with low torque numbers, number 1 name brand was Kroil with Liquid Wrench almost at a tie. The winner however, was a home brew of ATF and acetone, lol.

    Edit: This article was posted on ZZP, but came out of Machinist’s Workshop magazine
    Last edited by FriboRage; 10-10-2013 at 01:04 PM.
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    2004 Grand Prix GTP Comp G: Intake, F+R plogs + downpipe, 1.7 YT Rollers, Overkill, F-body front brakes, drilled/slotted r1 concept rotors.
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  13. #13 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    wait! turning it to the right? thats not right, its left loosey, righty tighty.

    if your head is under the d/s of the car, looking up at the filter, hold the line nut still, pull the filter nut towards you aka away from the frame towards the under side of the car body.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #14 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
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    Quote Originally Posted by FriboRage View Post
    The winner however, was a home brew of ATF and acetone, lol.

    Edit: This article was posted on ZZP, but came out of Machinist’s Workshop magazine
    I saw that too. It was a 50/50 mix of the two. Don't make too much at a time though -- the acetone evaporates real fast if not in a tightly sealed container. I just knew I saved that quart of Type F for a good reason.
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  15. #15 Re: Rusty Fuel Filter YYYAAAHHH! 
    GTP Level Member Burbman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    if you dont have a line wrench for the line nut, use vise grips tight as hell, dont turn the line nut, hold it where it is, then put another wrench on the filter's hex nut there, ( you se it in the pic up there) crank on the filter, while holding the line nut still. if the line nut turns, the line will twist, and well, then your fixing a broke fuel line.
    Just did this a couple weeks ago...Broke the connection loose and the line nut was turning, I didn't realize it wasn't turning on the line, twisted the line right off. Dorman makes a repair kit. Cut the line with a tubing cutter back where it is straight, bend the new tube to match, and the kit comes with a compression fitting to join new/old lines so no flaring needed. was an easy fix but better to avoid it as Scotty says,
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