Thread: Dyno Results

Originally Posted by Just Yourshadow

Snowflake I had to go bad to make sure your retarded as I think you are. You have absoultely no idea any of the specs of the fuel you run but it's ok I'm going to help your small little brain out. E85 is a 105 octane rating at the 85/15 mix. It takes 30 percent more fuel to get the same amount of energy when running E85 vs. regular gas. Now here's where it gets fun, You live in CT, it's the middle of February, and you wonder why you only have a 60/40 mix. It's because they add more gas to the mix to ease cold starts you ****ing retard.

Originally Posted by Just Yourshadow

How the **** am I trying to compensate? I'm sick of people asking stupid questions without doing proper research first. I'm just trying to inform the retards of this information as politely as I can

105 is the minimum octane rating which the pumps are required to post for year-round. 85% ethanol blend is around 108-109 octane, the 70% which they should be blended at in winter gets down to 105 octane. The octane isn't that impressive compared to the MON value which is higher for ethanol than typical race fuel and the high MON value is typically where you see advantages in more timing and higher compression. There is a lot of unclear or wrong information out there so hopefully that helps clarify.

Ok, you guys asked, complained a little etc. We'll play along. This thread is being unlocked.

Keep in mind there will be ramifications with posting in it. Infractions will be given for personal insults, bs, thread crapping, and generally anything that pisses the moderation team off. Kthanks, infractyainasecond.

Originally Posted by matt5112

What correction factor was used for the 374?

Mostly looking for a picture of the entire dyno sheet.

If I recall correctly, 374 uncorrected, 372 STD, 362 SAE

Infraction given. We are serious guys. Don't ask for something and be surprised when you get infracted.

Boosten, it's time to stop and take another look at your pm's please. I'm not aiming to hand out infractions today.

Just..you can have your opinion.. but posting and pushing for an infraction.. not cool.

X2 for the full dyno sheet.

I see a rebellion starting.

ORIGINAL: blueandblack

Just thought I'd post these up to clear up any confusion since I was there for the dyno day and know the shop owner. I've removed info relevant to names and individuals for obvious reasons. I snapped a picture of each graph with each correction factor (uncorrected, STD, and SAE) so there would be no questions.

STD


SAE


Uncorrected

There is also a graph of the TVS vs GenV on page one. The two are over layed with each other. The graph on page one represents the TVS vs genV with both setups having 93 octane and the Same AFR.

I would have posted these earlier but I didn't have access to them. Thanks to blue and black for taking time out of his day to go down to the shop to snap some pics.

The AFR reading is off on these charts because it was unable to get an accurate reading out of the open header. Wb02 on my dhp showed afr in the high 11s

Alright, so I wanted to break this down and see what it would cost to replicate this project. So here is the list of parts and prices that I came up with:

Autolite Spark Plugs AL-104 US $12.00
XPZ Cam Package COMP-XPZ 04-01-01338 with pushrods US $479.99
Valve Spring Retainers 04-01-01157 Modified steel US $44.99
Crow Cams Valve Springs CROW-4918-12 105 lb US $109.99
Siemens Deka 60# Injectors 09-50-001100 Standard EV1 US $249.99
Northstar Throttle Body Kit ZZ-NSTBK-5-MAF Used LQ4 MAF US $299.99
ZZP Subtotal US $1,196.95

Headers and Exhaust Work $200
Supercharger $1500
Adapter Plate $300
Tuning $100
Racetronix Fuel Pump $210

Grand Total : $3510

Now that is a lot in my opinion to get 350whp from stock. Granted some of those parts can be picked up used for cheaper. But if the point of the swap is reliability, then you don't want to go too cheap and too used. Not to mention I listed the TVS SC at $1500, which is way under new price just to please the masses. I didn't include any of the little stuff either, which we all knows adds up quickly. Like his alternator relocation, gaskets, fluids, bolts, etc, etc, etc. Right there you could probably add on another $500 easy. And a one time base tune for $100 that you can't really do any changes. Anyone looking to make the 375whp mark would probably want to get a tuner and do it themselves since E85 octane levels seem to vary so much.

Overall, I think that is an honest look at what it would take cost wise to do this swap on a stock L67 engine (not L32 like the OP), and have it reliable.