What would cause the CV Joint driveshaft to be stuck? We cannot get it to budge? We have tried everything and it will not come out. We used the slidehammer, pry bars, you name it. What can we do to get it out?
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11-13-2011
What would cause the CV Joint driveshaft to be stuck? We cannot get it to budge? We have tried everything and it will not come out. We used the slidehammer, pry bars, you name it. What can we do to get it out?
11-13-2011
Here's a tip.if you have the outer side already out of the wheel hub slide it back in and retry with the slidehammer
11-13-2011
The driveshaft will not budge, tried a chain, slidehammer. It seems like the c-ring will not collapse and allow the shaft to come out of the tranny casing. We are afraid to use chisels as we may crack the tranny casing. We are out of ideas.
11-13-2011
Are you trying to salvage the old CV?
I think a pulling action (like from a bearing puller) will work better. I would try and rig together some sort of plate/bolt configuration and make a CV puller. Or, you could give this a try.
11-13-2011
We need to replace the cv joint because of a vibration. My husbands slidehammer set has every accessory except the spoon like cv joint remover. We can purchase it but it will be at least a week before we get it and he is doubtful that will work. We are just trying to figure out what may cause the shaft to be stuck in the tranny. He's pulled alot of cv joints an never had one stick this bad.
11-13-2011
Had one that stuck really bad on one of my brother's Neons once.
We tried lots of different things, even devising a two man puller and it still wouldn't budge. We ended up using a chisel to a gap started between the axle and the case. After that got the chsiel in a good position and hammered on it til the axle finally popped.
11-13-2011
He thought of trying that but the subframe is in the way plus the tranny case is aluminum and he's afraid he'll crack it.
11-13-2011
Can you rent one from your local store? I know my local Checker rents tools out like this.Originally Posted by chiana4477
11-13-2011
The case is thick, probably thicker than that of a Neon.
11-13-2011
We rented a slidehammer kit but guess what part was not included? I may be able to get one from NAPA by end of the day tomorrow. As for the chisel idea, the subframe is in the way. There is nowhere to place them. He wrapped chain around it and used the slidehammer, all that did was stretch the crap out of the chain. We just don't understand why it is so stuck. It is not the OE driveshaft, it's a NAPA driveshaft so it has been replaced before. Guess whoever did the job didn't grease it or really whacked it. I wouldn't be so pressed but I totaled my Ram 1500 on Halloween and need this car to get to work, I live in the boonies so there's no bus, nothing.
Well for now he's gonna put it back together and repack the joint with grease till we try the remover tool. If the remover does not work then she will have to go to my tranny guy, I just don't have the $ till the insurance pays up on my Ram. This Christmas is gonna SUCK!!
11-13-2011
There's no need to grease the end that goes into the diff, because it is lubricated by the ATF.
It sounds like the circlip was not properly installed at the time of remanufacture. This has caused it to not be able to properly compress upon removal of the axle as it is supposed to do.
11-13-2011
Well, that shaft has been replaced as it's a NAPA part, just like the one I bought. I asked my husband the same thing, could the C clip have collapsed, preventing the old shaft from coming out. He said it's unlikely but not impossible. Now, if that C clip is shot, what do we do then?? Could that clip have been damaged when the current shaft was installed?
11-13-2011
The clip is on the axle itself. Once you get the axle out you wont have an issue with just reinstalling the replacement.
11-13-2011
I'm going to get the CV joint remover for his slidehammer from NAPA tomorrow. If that does not work then I really don't know what to do.
11-13-2011
i drive a regal, and did my d/s axle, had no room to pry/pop from the bottom, so i used a roofing pry bar, the short nail removal side, on the top of the axle between the case, and it popped on the 4 th or 5 th try. it really needs to be loose and then snapped/popped out. you cant keep steady pressure on it, it wont pop if you do.
11-13-2011
My husband, Moe, was once given the nickname MoeGyver because he can always find a way to fix a problem using whatever is handy and he is stumped by this driveshaft, it just will not give. He has used a pry bar, chain, slidehammer, gear puller, you name it except this one adapter for his slidehammer. It is what is recommended in the book, but no one rents one here is S. Jersey. Ya gotta buy it.
For now he put her back together and greased the joint. This will hold till the part comes in and my insurance pays for a rental car. TRhanks for the ideas and keep 'em coming, we may need them. I'm just trying to avoid taking her into the mechanic. I trust him, just don't have the funds yet.
11-14-2011
Problem is.. the c clip compresses with a quick jerk to it. Once that pressure was applied constantly the clip was likely marred up and is now going to fight you the whole way. It's a quick hit type of force that makes these compress.
Like others said.. push in on the axle..then one quick jolt outward. Repeat until it comes.
Which axle is this, driver or passenger?
11-14-2011
The clip has fought him from the beginning. I had the same type on my Chrysler LeBaron and once he compressed the clip the axle came right out.
This is the drivers side. The book said to use a pry bar and all he did was bend the bar. Now we will try the inner CV joint remover that goes on his slidehammer, this was also recommended by the Hayne's book, NAPA has it for $45. I will pick that up after work. He'll try it today or tomorrow.
It's not like he has never done this, he has removed plenty of these axles but never one this stuck. I wonder if the clip was damaged when it was originally installed and now it won't compress? This is not the OEM axle, it's a NAPA, just like the one I picked up.
11-14-2011
Right.. most of the time they will pop even with some force. However I knew the siautation that occurred. Let's say it might have happened to be once or twice.
FWIW that haynes manual isn't worth a match to light it on fire. If you want to give him the best information, check ebay for GM ESI that covers the range including your year. Cost me $40 and it's from GM themselves. Fantastic information that can't really be matched by a Haynes or Chiltons. Closest thing is AllData.
11-14-2011
^
Truth
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