Car wont start, was just running yesterday

[Dee23]

I have a "no start",

It started once for me today and ran for about 10min, i cut it off and had a low coolant light but i knew the system was completely full. So i tried to erase the light by- car still off, pressed brake three times, and then held the reset button in the fuse box for 5 seconds- apparently all i had to do was hold that same RESET button for 5 sec (without pressing the breaks 3x) according to the car manual...but it was to late bc i had already did it, shouldve read the manual first, but since i done it b4 i thought i remebered correctly but obviously i didnt.....

Long story short, when i tried to start the car, it just wouldnt start for anything...turns over n over but wont start...everything is plugged in(sensors, vaccuum lines,relays/fuses) so i dont understand y it wont start now, as it did before i did that lil reset attempt. Maybe i set some security theft alarm, and i accidently tripped the fuel system some how bc thats what it seems like, like im not getting any fuel. i was just driving the car the other day, so i could only think some solenoid was tripped or something.

By the way, im not getting any codes what soever, but the damn car wont start.....Somebody kill me......4real....im exhausted

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Unplug the MAF and try again.

Its a simple test to try atleast.

[RedneckGTP]

Go to your basics. To you have spark? Fuel? Air? Air is usually the easy one? Do you fuel pressure? If so do you have spark? Inline spark checkers are cheap.

Try that and let's go from there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dee23]

Those are all grate possibilities...But theyre all good...the car was just running earlier today for 10min, so that says a lot. Its almost as if i tripped something, like the fuel solenoid, me personaly i thought i left something electrical un-connected....

Now, this is the ?, what wire is that(red) that runs under the Alternator? Its the Alternator connector that goes directly into the ALT and the V-booster can connect to it if u have one. Its the (RED) wire out of the 4 or 5 wires on the connector, but its not connected.....

Not sure what wire that is, but it may be causing my NO START....It may be the same wire connected to the starter wire....not sure, i need a diagram

[Dee23]

By the way, there wasnt any security light that flashed. On a 00" Regal, the fuse box is on the PASS side right on the side of the glove compartment.

The FP does sound like it was primming when the key was in the on/run position. I dont have a fuel psi gauge, but I was smelling fuel which led me to believe that it was getting fuel.

But as mentioned, it was running last night and right before this NO START, so im not sure what would make the fuel or spark instantly stop like that...

Also, the connector that goes directly into the Alternator (right below the ALT), the RED wire is disconnected. its a 4 or 5 wire connector, and the RED one is not in. Not sure whatelse is running on or through that wire but im assuming that it may have something to do with the non-starting bc the wire does connect into the ALT...

i dont have any diagrams so i really cant tell what that wire is for....wish i had Mitchell or All Data...

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

So from reading the first post it still cranks, just wont fire.

Did you even try what I said yet?

[Zef_66]

Or have you verified spark and fuel like a previous poster said?

[Scottydoggs]

i just skimmed the 2000 owners manual, and i dont see anything about the reset button doing anything but resetting the tire pressure monitoring system.

it reads different from the 98, but i cant find where it would re set anything but the tps.

[Scottydoggs]

so it looks like a wire pulled from the plug on the alt your saying? that could very well be your issue. a new pig tail may be in order.

[BillBoost37]

Dee...give us some info please. Currently you are repeating yourself over and over.

There is nothing in a 2000 Regal Owners manual about pressing the reset button for the low coolant light. On page 2-66 it tells you that the light comes on to tell you it's low so you don't overheat. Then it says see "Engine Coolant" in the index and that the light comes on at key on to show you it works. Engine coolant in the index simply gives you the intervals to check it and that's it. On page 2-66 to the right of the coolant info is the tire pressure info, but resetting is not on that page. I have a 2000 and the manual is right here to reference about the reset, as that would have been new info to me.

I'd like to know what led you to that red wire. What gauge is the wire? No wiring to the alternator is keeping the engine from starting. You can start the car w/o an alternator, without an AC compressor, without belts, without a power steering pump. I know...because I have done it.

You say the security light is not on, do you mean not at all? Manual says on 2-72 "The Security light will come on when you turn the key to start and stay on until the vehicle starts. It will flash if your ignition key is too dirty or wet for the pass-key II system to read the resistor pellet". It then refers you to the Passkey II system in the index.

Passkey II is found on 2-16 and says that if the system sense a key it does not like it will shut down the starter and fuel system. This means that since it's cranking..it's not the security system.

What am I getting at here? You are back to square one and I'd suggest following the advice of the knowledgeable guys that responded to you. Try unplugging the maf, try checking for spark. This isn't rocket science. You need compression, spark, fuel and timing to start. Theft system doesn't appear to be an issue. You say the fuel pump is priming, check the schrader for a good spurt of fuel. From there..it's time to check spark.

[Dee23]

Sorry 3800 brothers, havent been able to get on. So, I pulled the ALT off and apparently it was the ORANGE wire that was disconnected (not the RED one as I stated). But with the ALT on, i could barely see under there so i guess thats Y i got the colors mixed up.

So, its the V-regulator I believe that connects directly into the ALT. I have a V-Booster from ZZP, so that was connected in the ALT first, followed by the OEM ALT connector. Both the OEM and V-booster have the same ORANGE wire, but the V-booster connector is the one that the ORANGE wire disconnected and wont stay in. So, i took that V-booster off and plugged the OEM ALT connector back into the ALT plug.

Not sure if that ORANGE wire is what prevented me from starting the car, but info from a few sources on mines stated that, that wire may have cut the power from the ALT, which in turn kept the ALT from charging the battery (now that im thinking, remember i said my car was running for awhile b4 i had shut it off. So my car must had been running off of the battery alone that entire time and drained it, preventing me from starting it back up).

Everything is back together except for the battery still being diconnected (negative). I havent attempted to start it yet, which i will do first thing in the morning thats if my battery isnt completely dead. But also when I turned my car off yesterday and attempted to start it back up, i cranked it repeatedly (about 3-4 seconds) i held it on each crank, and i did this on n off for about 10min bc I just didnt have any clue of what the problem was. On top of that one of those cranks I held to long and it made a bad loud noise but not nothing like a clunk as if the starter pinion and fly wheel gears had conflicted. So im not sure if i caused any damage.

SO, this ORANGE wire was the damn issue of Y it didnt start ha??? heres the pic i took earlier.... And I highly appreciate u guys for helping me and being concerned. Otherwise i wouldve had to pay to get it towed and then only GOD knows what the repair shop wouldve made a list of...MONEY MONEY MONEY[IMG]
[/IMG]

[BillBoost37]

Dee.. you can read ...am I right? Surely with 9 hours between our posts you ....might have read what was written to help you out?

Red, orange... don't care if it's pink with polka dots.. that wire isn't causing you not to start. As for enough battery power you had indicate previous that the battery appeared to be fine with plenty of cranking power.

Short story made shorter.. problem is between the steering wheel and the seat cushion.

[Dee23]

Car hasnt started yet.....bummer....is there a security alarm on these cars or what? maybe a kill switch or something was tripped.....Whats btw the steering and seat cushion???

[97gtpjoe]

Car hasnt started yet.....bummer....is there a security alarm on these cars or what? maybe a kill switch or something was tripped.....Whats btw the steering and seat cushion???

He is referring to the driver !

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Car hasnt started yet.....bummer....is there a security alarm on these cars or what? maybe a kill switch or something was tripped.....Whats btw the steering and seat cushion???

For ****s sake dood, you might be helpless.

Have you even tried what we said?

How are we suppose to know what else to say when all you ****ing do it ***** and moan that your car doesnt start?

You havent said a single word on what you have tried or havent tried yet.


You might aswell set the car on fire and claim the money from your insurance.

[Dee23]

For ****s sake dood, you might be helpless.

Have you even tried what we said?

How are we suppose to know what else to say when all you ****ing do it ***** and moan that your car doesnt start?

You havent said a single word on what you have tried or havent tried yet.


You might aswell set the car on fire and claim the money from your insurance.

Aye man, relax with the way your talking. I do have a life and a SON to take care of, so i couldnt jump on here when i wanted to give u guys an update and the GS had to sit in the garage unattended a few times.

Im not an expert on AutoMotive but i do know more than the average guy. Of couse I ran all those test, I actually did it b4 I made this thread, which is Y i made this thread bc I was looking for other possibilities. Did a load test on the battery, tested the ALT, tested the coils(even checked them with the coils off thru the terminals/trigger wheel),checked sensors, OHMs test on everything pretty much, put the scanner on, checked fuses, and i can keep going....turned out to be my SPARK PLUGS, wasnt firing bc of the gap

I mean, I cant stress anymore of how much i appreciate yal help. Got the car to start, but running rough bc the damn TB studs came off so it wont seal correctly until i get the studs to sit back in tightly....

Sorry about the delays. u guys might have been frustrated waiting on my update, but trust me....no one here is frustrated more than i am with the situation.

I learned one thing though, when your car is running fine...adding lil things bc u think its better is what will fuucckkk your shhiitt up...like they say "if it aint broke, dont fix it"... lesson learned

[Grimsin]

its not a security issue cause its cranking over, start trouble shooting with the info these people gave you.

[courtney kiesow]

lol

[L36 Killer]

Cam...Bless you!!

[joe0813]

jump the fuel pump resistor