Finished my diy led lighting. More pics in the how-to thread
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Finished my diy led lighting. More pics in the how-to thread
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Finished installing my Ls1 intake today... Tomorrow I'm going to clean the car really good and get ready for the big meet Saturday!
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Realized my driver seat goes higher than i remember or known it did... i legit can set out of my car instead of crawl... except i don't fit in the damn car when the seat all the way up.. my head goes out of the sun roof.... #bigandtallproblems
^ cut the roof off... West coast custom style
It's always something, damn it. On the way home the car shifted a little hard til it got warm, no biggie. Then cruising down the street (in my 6-4, jockin the *****es, slapping the hoes), and my lights dim...at 2,000 RPM. This happens a few times then my battery light comes on. I rev it in neutral and lights come back and battery light turns off. The lights dim a few more times, but I make it home. I pop the hood and everything seems normal, except for the fact my alternator stud is loose. Not the nut on the stud, the stud itself. I'm thinking that is the problem...you guys have any input?
As I recall, It's just a stud, tighten it. I know that I cut down the stud/spacer when I Gen V'd a car.
On my pickup, I've been chasing a braking issue. One time you drive it all is great and you stop good. Next you notice pedal fade and creeping forward at stop lights. Brake light came on, due to fluid low the other week. Filled it up and looked all over it for any wetness, nothing where I park it etc. Been scratching my head a bit on this one. Last night I hop in and it's worse than ever, the feeling that I'll find the issue is strong....either that or I'll fuggin crash. Knowing it is likely in need of more fluid I stop at Advance and pop the hood, boy .... I can smell the fluid. Look around and down. All the lines have been replaced with NiCopp except the front passenger .... ding ding ding... there it is, where the plastic holds the line right on the top of the frame in the front left corner. Absolutely soaked, and now dripping enough to see it no matter how you look for it. Grab another 20' roll of 1/4" NiCopp and off to the house.. fixed that up and I'm happy again.
Then I began disliking Jason using my favorite word. "e a zzzzzzzy"
Ex gfs Sunfire subframe smh
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CS might have a nut inside. Google rebuilding one. Something clearly can come loose.
It's under warranty, that's why I was going to start there, since it's an easy free replacement, lol.
In that case.. you have no right asking the question. RETURN!
Sunday it's happening, so I hope it lasts. I have to work 12 hours today and 10 hours tomorrow so I won't have much spare time, lol. On a side note, this damn TAPS stuff need to figure out the shifting already. That 1-2 shift is annoying me, it's almost like when you are riding in a standard car and the driver popped the clutch a little to early and the car almost bucks. It's nowhere near as bad as what that would feel like, but it's along the same lines. I can monitor my EPC amperage from Torque and it's at 1.0-1.1 amps at idle and drops to about 0.8-0.9 amps while driving.
It's a firm shift.. stop fretting... Heck..you'd probably think something was wrong iwth my little Regal. She shifts FUUUUURM, with a U furm
Either way I'm sick of tearing into it for awhile, so I'm gonna leave it. If the transmission wants to **** the bed, I'm going to stuff it full of fireworks and get a really long fuse.
YOu know..you can make bank if anyone in your area needs a 4th hub done.
Good idea, I might have to look into that most people in my area are idiots when they come to vehicles. I live in the country, so I mention big words like "valve lift" or "rocker arm ratio" and I get looked at like a deer caught in head lights.
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