Shhhhh
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Shhhhh
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whats your 'within reason'.......
Its a super secret
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no retros for you!
I mean do your worst
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had installed a $6 o2 sensor fouler last week and been enjoying no check engine light and better gas mileage since then. Now when i do headers next week may have to buy another zzp o2 extension to make this keep working for the rear.
Also its parts came today I think I have it mocked up right. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/15/epu7uju7.jpg
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Need to put my car on the lift this weekend, give it an oil change and check and see if there's any damage from winter and the ****ty ass roads here in MN
Still gonna sell it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmidty
Polished it all up, took it out for a short cruise.
I had a WS6 that was very persistent, well from a 40 roll got walked, couple blocks up I caught him at the light halfway through the intersection he hits it again, so did I and after a rough feeling 1st gear drop I got a fender ahead and he didn't pull.
That 1st gear slam has me nervous of my trans dieing.
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Need to write up an ad for CraigsList and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Theaceofspades
Blew my resonator out on the comp g last night. Super loud racecar now
Your ears bleeding yet? Lol and I filled it up and it cost 63 bucks and that was for 87...Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmuts
It's not to loud just annoying
It's hard to tell from the pic which way the bushings are facing but the pointed ends go into the sway bar and LCA.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
I thought so.
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More stuff today, knowing my luck this stuff wont fix my problem, and ill have to do steering stuff
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/16/tuguhuha.jpg
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Normally the ends with raised flats meet inside the hole on those bushings. The way they are in the pic, each one needs to flip over. Can barely see one flat end by your thumb. That side is always facing away from the washer and towards the bar or arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
I found that bad tie rod ends are most noticeable in highway crosswinds. New ones make a big difference. If you count threads and set them up just like the old ones, you may keep the alignment close enough where you can continue to drive it and do other susp work then get an alignment just once at the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
Today, I'm spending a little time with the purple car for once. Haven't driven it much this year.
I don't count threads anymore as the new part may not have the exact same amount of threads, in the same spot compared to the joint. I use a tape measure and measure from a place on the inner tie rod such as where the boot ends, to the Zerk fitting (or where one would be) and put the new one the same distance.