Thread: vibration + clunk = perplexed & vexed

03 GTP, 137k mi. When I bought the car 2yrs ago with a 120k mi it was not safe to drive. On the front, I installed new; imp/mc calipers, rotors, pads, HTM coil over kit w/ kyb struts, dorman lca, duralast i & o tie rods, napa axels, and wheel bearing hubs--Timken on 1 side & Moog on the other (but don't remember which side is which). I still have slight vibration under hard acceleration and hard breaking and sometimes a clunk when going into drive or reverse, & slow turning, coming from the front right. I am preparing to lower transaxle to replace shift solenoids and had convinced myself the subframe bushings were bad, b/c everything else is new. I have ordered the parts, frigging $. My idea was to replace subframe bushings when I dropped the subframe for shift solenoid replacement, but if the bushings are not the problem, I will return them. This weekend I found slight play in front right wheel w/ hands @ 12 & 6. Its tight with hands at 3 & 9. I got under it up close & personal, check bolts, et al. Everything looks fine & the lca ball joint does not appear to have any play & when I check the rotor lateral runout on the right wheel, the needle jitters, needle does not sweep smoothly like the other wheels. So, wtf, subframe bushings, lca, badly worn rotor, wheel hub, knuckle? Could the hub be bad, and only have play in one direction (seems weird to me)? What would you do?

Checked motor and trans mounts?

Thanks and sorry I forgot--I also installed new solid m & t mounts.

"sometimes a clunk when going into drive or reverse" If you figure this problem out please post it because my car has been doing it for a while. I believe the problem is internal to the transmission but I'm not really sure.

I'm so sad & very frustrated. Replaced front right wheel bearing hub (again) & play is gone, had rotor cut & lateral rumour is now .001". Vibration under hard acceleration is ok, but still there slightly under hard breaking. & still have clunks & a new aweful rattle from underneath or rear w/ light throttle, sounds like could be exhaust or maybe trans. Gmpartsgiant shorted me an insulator in their shipment so still waiting. I guess I'll replace subframe bushings, but doubt that will solve it. I'll take another look at rear end when I have time later this week. I'm beginning to think the unibody design can transfer the clunks & rattles through the chasis. I think this problem is beyond me, my ability to solve.

flip the upper dog bone mounts, if they have not been, they could be shot and letting the engine move.

pop the hood start the car, shift it from P to R to D back to p, watch the engine for movement. it shouldn't move a whole lot. if its moving a lot, the mounts are bad somewhere. upper ot lower mounts.

Thanks for the suggestions! I already have m & t spacers from zzp -btw I had to drill out a hole on 1 of them, it was WAY off. I will try flipping dogbone bushing-that's 1 thing I haven't done, & esp. Since it's free! & will follow up.

Scottydoggs could be onto something. The dogbones seem to have quite a bit of play to me, but I don't have reference and literally can't get to a junkyard until this weekend, and the clock is running on being able to return some of the parts I ordered. So I have to ask, I'm wondering if PO used correct bolts/nuts for dogbones. 1) on the engine side, the bolt is NOT snug in the bushing, the hole in bushing is quite a bit larger than the bolt. 2) To flip bushing on chassis, instruction is remove dogbone and reinsert bolt, tighten nut ALL the way down to bushing, which I cant do--the nut only threads down about 1" then bights the threads on the bolts. So before I break something I have to ask, are these 2 things normal? Thanks!

I got the dogbone bushings flipped. NO time for a real test drive. I will update later. Thanks again Scottydoggs!

Follow up. It feels/sounds like motor &/or trans mounts are bad. I installed DEA (IIRC same as sold at autozone) solid rubber mounts, even though OE mounts did not look bad, when I installed coilovers and spacers. It didn't fix problem so at one point I put original mounts back on. Not much difference. So few months ago I reinstalled newer DEA solid mounts. Flipping the dogbones has been great, generally improves drivability--Thanks again Scottydoggs. Rear left stabilizer bar link had blown ball joint, so went to junk yard and pulled one off a buick- one problem fixed, until I can upgrade. Aweful rattle is from rusted thru weld seems in muffler. Ya, great... I got some $4 repair putty, put it on tonight and hope for best. Driving and handling is gradually getting better, but the clunk when engaging gear from park, clunk when slow turning, vibration when high speed hard breaking, are still there. Something is definitely lose, engine/trans rock when changing momentum, body/chassis connection, something....Thanks for the input! when part arrives, I'll change shift solenoids and subframe busings. Update latter.

The bolt for the dogbone mount should def be tight with no play so someone put the wrong on in there. Have you done/looked at your brakes? are you calipers good and i imagine you have atleast changed your pads and rotors. When you did, did you use new clips and grease them? Often we get people come back to our store saying defective rotors... Rotors dont really warp. Its generally installation error and we will return them once because anything is possible but when they come back again and say they are warped again, thats when we ask have you replaced your clips and made sure there isnt any rust build up in the clip holders, also make sure they are greased where they slide and on back of pad. Ive done plenty of brake jobs, and never have i had "warped rotors" vibration and squeeling.

Update. Now the rt rr sway bar link has play. I know I need new rr sway bar, et al, but already spent the $, so back to the junk yard when I have time. Still waiting for gmpartsgiant shipment. When I got last end link at junkyard, I checked out dogbones, bushings, & bolts & wasn't impressed. Flipping the front bushings made such a difference, I ordered rr poly bushings from ZZP. Thanks for the input Gingseng, but I think calipers & pads are good. I won't say the rotor was warped, but it was badly worn. I can't say reason, but trusted my micrometer. Having it cut was a hassle, but it was free & it definitely helped. Now: I have a CLUNK in rr--hoping end link fixes that, but its loud sometimes so idk; I have the hard SHIFT-BANG w/ delayed shifts, esp. when hot--hoping shift solenoids fixes that; I have a KNOCK when change of momentum, engaging gear--hoping new dogbone rr bushings & subframe bushings fixes that, but idk; I have a CLICK/CLACK from right when turning wheel right when slow or stopped, sounds like lca/tie rod end, but I don't think so--IDK--I found a few loose/missing bolts & broken parts on front right fender/bumper area--my guess is fender / chassis connection is missing / loose.. but IDK, I've been through what I can see... But also it could be; chassis getting bad, steering rack, trans internal, axel, knuckle....? I think the vibration when driving hard & noises from front right are from same problem. Just going to do what I can as parts arrive. Appreciate all input.

Update. I patched muffler weld seem holes with repair putty, won't say its fixed, but it did stop rattle, for now. Replaced both rear sway bar end links, one from junk yard, one duralast (actually was impressed by heft and apparent quality--but still plan on getting GMPP rear sway bar and end links soon). New front springs and bushings for the coil overs. Flipped front dog bone bushings and new ZZP poly rear dog bone bushings. My newish DEA brand "solid" trans mount was NOT solid and pretty tore up, so I put OE back on. I did NOT do subframe bushings--just don't have the tools for it and I really don't think they are bad/a problem. I did get subframe lowered and 4 new solenoids in trans--500 miles later and they seem great, no more shift bangs, yet. I will plan to put a few hundred highway miles on it this weekend, get it good and hot, but I'm expecting the best. I still have an occasional click/clack from front right when hard, slow turn right, and clunk when change in momentum from right/underneath, and vibration on right with hard braking--I think these are all related--chassis?, chassis/body connection?, rocker panel?, really, IDK. At this point, I don't think its suspension or the drivetrain. Going to keep looking, but don't know what to look for. Still appreciate all input. Thanks again!

I realize I'm a few weeks late but... As I posted earlier my car seems to make the same clunk at times. FWIW I flipped my dog bones years ago, so I know in my case they are not related to the issue. The good news I have noticed my "clunk" for weeks now, maybe it fixxed itself.

I bought the car knowing it was a mystery mobile from a shady dealer, mainly because the body was seemed in good shape (I don't weld or paint). Now, I'm 99% certain it was in an accident at front, right, and poorly/minimally repaired. In this last round of work, I pulled a terribly corroded 3/8" drive craftsman ratchet from inside front bumper/fender area--no telling how long it was there. I wouldn't be surprised if the socket is still there somewhere, or if the knock from rear isn't another lost piece left for me by PO. At front right I have replaced/repaired; wiper fluid pump, wiper fluid reservoir neck, head light, fender well liner, and found a broken plastic clip and 3 serious loose fender to chassis bolts. I just suspect the clunk from front right / underneath and vibration with higher speed/ hard driving are chassis/body related--subframe, floor board, rocker panel, IDK--honestly, not sure where to start....