Thread: Alignment results. Any input?

Just wondering if anyone has any advice before I go forward with a new set of tires

mods are as follows
kyb agx struts x4
tein springs
camber bolt in front struts
adjustable camber brackets in rear
(added 2 more washer behind each bolt on the brackets because last year the adjustment was at the max and the tire was still wearing the inside edge in the rear)
Tires are 225/40/18

Now last April everything suspension wise was replaced with new moog parts and I loaded them with poly bushings

*last week I noticed the inside of the front tires are now worn down to the belts! And the back inside tread was cupped.
Tbis was after I had it aligned following the work I did

so I just want to check - it's aligned again and before I get new tires again - any thoughts ?





thanks!!

camber bolts, or slot the struts.

i stopped going to my firestone, guy was doing horrid work.

most of the inside wear is/was from the negative total toe settings. the wheels are pointed out and are scrubbing off the leading edge of the tire. toe is the largest tire wear angle by far.

good that u put in the camber eccentrics to correct the front. the r/r camber is out of spec in the positive direction of the spec, which should wear the outside, not the inside of the tire. have you changed the springs? a -0.1 camber setting will not wear tires. It may not corner as well or maybe change the vehicle load to the smaller outer wheel bearing a bit. I like to keep my settings in the factory limits so I would do a rear adjustment.


the cross caster is a bit high? does it pull right?

Car rides straight.
I had negative camber in the rear from day 1 after lowering. The tops of the tires tucked hard.

So I bought adjustable camber brackets for the rear. Turning the bolt slides the upper U shaped arm in and out.
Last alignment the guy said he pushed them out as far as they would go and it's close but not perfect but way better then without.

So just for my peace of mind I bought 8 new bolts and lock washers (35m long) and 16 washers
put 2 washers behind each bolt on the brackets - figured this would help kick the tops out more then I have all that room left in the adjustable bracket to kick it in if needed.

Maybe the tech didn't know I had adjustable brackets back there ?

The he cross caster blows my mind. No idea ?

you need to tell them you have camber bolts, most are to dumb to know.

if it is maxed out you can always add one to the bottom strut bolt hole.

Lol Scotty. I'm probably super dumb for not saying this - it's not the regal


i dont think I ever had an issue with the regal rear camber cause I keep its front down low and it's ass in the air like a $20 hooker

if it drives straight don't worry about the cross caster...its only out by 0.2 which is f-all. I thought it might pull on a crowned road.

cross caster that is out to much will cause the steering wheel to turn off-centre to the side of least positive caster. the weight of the car pushes the spindles to the lowest point. while driving at hwy speed, if you center the steering wheel and release it...if the steering wheel pulls itself off-centre...either the cross-caster is out or the tires are conical.

measure your ride height, if its up in the r/r....lower you r/r coil over

Thanks for the input
I learned a lot from reading this thread.

Originally Posted by CrazyGuy03

Lol Scotty. I'm probably super dumb for not saying this - it's not the regal


i dont think I ever had an issue with the regal rear camber cause I keep its front down low and it's ass in the air like a $20 hooker

either way, they wont notice camber bolts most of the time. if not told they over look it.

Yessir Scotty you are correct.
When I drop the cars off , I try to explain this. Sometimes the information gets lost between the tech at the counter and the tech doing the work.

So tomorrow I install the wheels and give it a week or two - keep on eye on it. Bring it back again and make sure they know everything is adjustable.


I was also hoping to find out I didn't need to buy the megan racing adjustable trailing arms for rear caster/toe?
or the megan racing rear control arms ($400 for everything - not cool )

-0.3 and -0.4 when it calls for -0.5,. the toe is -0.09 and 0.00 when it calls for -0.12. HA!

my only thoughts are: don't go back over there, have a decent shop fix it and ask for you cash back.
evidently they don't know what they are doing.

All I can say is I bought a new set of tires and took my car to a shop to get an alignment, paid $40 and the car ran straight. About 5,000 miles later both front tires were wore out really bad and the inside Left front was the worst, it was to the belts. I ended up getting new tires and replacing a bent rim as well. again and took it to my friends shop and spent the better part of the day with 4 sets of camber bolts and having to slot the Right side strut mount because it was a little too far out. We had the machine loos cal on the sensors several times but he said he usually gets it in the green and lets them go but since I am pretty picky and I was helping we had everything within .02* of center of spec. I just had the tires rotated at 7,200 miles and they are still really good and no abnormal wear.

It's not an alignment problem, it has equal toe on both side with dead center total toe with 0º steer ahead.


Unless they started with the steering wheel slightly off center it's not going to pull to one side and even if the steer ahead of slighty off the total toe is within spec.

My guess is a radial pull from one of the tires, way more common than you think. I'd swap tires side to side up front and see if it pulls the other way.