Thread: Change S/C oil before LIM Change?

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

use the rtv in the kit, get a extra qt or two of oil to wash down the lim should you spill coolant.

the valve cover kits get a felpro kit with grommets, rock auto once again is as cheap as you may find. local its a 75 dollar kit.

when you put the covers back on, take a look at the bolts, they have a shoulder at the end of the threads, only snug these bolts, or you will snap them.

if you do spill coolant you'll really want to dump the oil, then add your new oil and filter, run it for a few minutes, and change the oil and filter once more to make sure the coolant is out of the engine.

I've actually got a set of the FelPros that were intended for my GT, but never needed, they've been rolling around in the trunk of the GT for a good year now. So don't torque to spec, just snug and that's it?

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

you cant use those, they are not the same.


and just snug em. f the tq spec on those, they will snap.

Glad you knew that otherwise I would've been finding out the hard way. Thanks for your patience and all the information, I always like to make sure I go into something fully aware of as much as possible.

Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

you cant use those, they are not the same.


and just snug em. f the tq spec on those, they will snap.

WTH? If you are snapping those bolts, your torque wrench is uncalibrated or cheap or you simply don't know how to use one.

Also, you don't really need to torque them, you can get away with snugging them. I just torqued mine for ease of mind.

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Are you sure you're not projecting your past screw ups onto other members?

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IDC what anyone says, whoever snaps them off with a torque wrench is doing something wrong.

You can never really count exhaust bolts for a reason on these cars.

I've stripped bolts that matter and snapped a bolt that goes to the coolant block off plate on the side of the LIM lol

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Let me ask you something, did you use the torque wrench or a breaker bar to tighten the additional 90 degrees? IIRC it's 90*

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Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

breaker bar, mr breaks bolts lol

why would i beat the hell out of calibrated tool?

and the last 30º on the top row is the real b1tch. lol

Good. Just making sure cause I've seen many uneducated people screw up torque wrenches that way.

You bet your ass the last 30° is a pain in the balls. I would would think a person your size wouldn't think that was a big deal lol.

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Originally Posted by ScottyDoggs

its not that hard, but its super tight, like it feels like the bolts are gonna snap.

Exactly! After doing several different engines, I learned not to worry too much because if the bolt snaps, you know it's the bolts fault provided your tools are calibrated and you have the right specs.
It must be a real b!tch to drill out a broken head bolt tho lol



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Well. Everything is almost back together before it got dark. All that's left is alternator, evap stuff, oil change, vaccuum lines and some other miscellaneous stuff.

Couple quick questions. Do any of the following need a torque spec? Idler pulley, tensioner, coil bracket, throttle body.

Awesome thanks!

I spilled some coolant so I ended up flushing the valley out.