Thread: Issue after intercooler install, car revs high then drops way low

Do you have a handheld vacuum pump for bleeding brakes? Try pulling a slight vacuum on the core and see how long it holds. Don't go below about 15" or you risk imploding the core.

Jeff

His car ran fine after he uninstalled the IC and just installed the blower. This is round 2

Well see about renting one. My only other test would to be put the IC core under pressure, but that's just going to dump coolant into your engine.

how about this:

connect 2 long clear hoses to the IC core then have the ends open but hang them from the hood with some safety lock wire, bailing wire or a coat hanger. Fill the tubes with water and blow in each end to get all the air bubbles out of the core. It really helps to have clear tubing (Home Depot or equivalent) fill the tube until you have about 6" of free space then mark the level with a marker. Start the car and let it run for a minute or so and watch the level. If it drops then you have a leak in the core.

Jeff

did you remove the core or leave it in? You really need to test it under vacuum, and with the engine running as I suggested. If the it isn't running you run the risk of hydro locking it, Which could damage the engine. If you do end up locking it up remove the plugs and turn the engine over.

Can't you put some UV dye in the core? Maybe that would help you find it? Perhaps you could put one color in the rad, and another in your HE?

Those must be some suckass bolts if you're stripping the heads out. If they are SST then that's just the way it is, SST is hard and soft all at the same time, it's a weird metal. Most SST bolts are made from 17-8 SST, which has marginal corrosion resistance. Use standard black oxide or grade 5 or 8. What size are they? Length, pitch and diameter. I have several fastener companies I use and can probably get you something of better quality.

as far as testing it will be difficult to put the core in something and keeping it from imploding when you pull a vacuum on it. You wouldn't happen to have (access to) a referigerent pump either air powered or motor powered do you? If you do then you could place a couple of sheets of steel or 1/4" plexiglass/lexan/acrylic in top and bottom of the core holder and draw a vacuum and see where the leak is. You can find the plastic at a plastics place, they usually sell scrap by the pound. I use a place called Regal Plastics in Houston. In fact I have a ton of it at the shop. I'd be willing to send you some, just pay the shipping and let me know the dimensions you need.

if you have access to an air compressor you can buy an air powered vacuum pump for like $12 from harbor freight and it serves double duty when you need to work on AC.

just smear some grease around the upper and lower part and slap a piece on either side and draw a vacuum on it like I described earlier and you will see where the leak is.

Jeff

Can you post a pic of how the setup is as installed (minus installing it of course). I am not sure how the system is piped, I have seen other pics and it looks as though the the inlet and outlet are outside the manifold adapter. I have run into situations where a device leaks under one condition but not the other, so it acts kinda like a check valve, that's why I was suggesting using plexiglass on top and bottom. At this point I have only seen LIM from the top with the SC off and I'm not familiar with the actual adapter/spacer that goes between the SC and LIM. I am assuming you tapped and plugged the LIM to block of the TB water passages?

i would pull the vacuum and leave it for at least an hour.

For the bolts you guys need socket head (aka Allen)? Would standard hex head be better?

Jeff