Thread: :: Solved:: Tick but Not Knock

From alldata.

1. Record the compression readings from all of the cylinders.

• • The lowest reading should not be less than 70 percent of the highest reading.
  • No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) .

OKay well did a compression check.

#1 = 160
#3 = 160
#5 = 160-165

#2 = 145
#4 = 145

Here's where it's weird. #6 = 150 - 175... it was the first cylinder I checked and the weird part was for several seconds the compression gauge went up and then down up and down up and down... after 5+ seconds it started to climb like normal building to the 175.. I only saw it happen once and I cannot replicate it again (I wanted a video) I've tried a dozen times

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if you just did the lim gaskets, do the oil change now, dont drive it till you change the oil and the filter. if any coolant went down the lifter valley that oils done for.

some people recommend doing 2 oil changes just to be safe. 1 st one with the cheapest oil you can find, second with oil of your choice.

if you have coolant in your oil your lim gaskets are bad or the upper intake as well if your N/A. change them asap if thats the case.

its almost impossible to get oil in the coolant. major head gasket failure maybe would do it but not likely.

trans can dump tranny fluid in the coolant and also get coolant in the trans, because of the tranny cooler that's built into the radiator.


the ticking sounds. start the engine, valve cover off while its running grab each rocker, make sure its tight feeling. while doing this the noise may stop or seem muffled.

you can also spin each push rod, and tell if its bent by doing so. sometimes they spin easier when the cars running. sometimes no problem when off, just depends on how hard its being pushed on by the cam/lifters and rocker arms.

Yeah I'm a tard i just realized I used a pan that I've drained oil into before. Total moron moment. So forget the oil in coolant comment., even though the previous owner said it I had and still believe it was just dexcool sludge.... There is def no coolant in the oil.



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All the rocker arms are solid as far as up and down. A few will ever so slightly move side to side but the bolts are tight.

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Okay screw it... what all do I need If I'm going to put a new set of lifters in it

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Ls7 or comp cam hmmm

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I went with ls7 lifters.. got new alum lim. Sc, injector and coolant orings and valve cover gaskets. Also a New alt/tensioner bracket. old one seemed a bit rough.

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Well things did not turn out so well I decided since I had cometic head gaskets I just got it to the pistons. Found obvious problem. Not a lifter. #2 &#4 pistons are chipped.

Is it logical to replace just those two or junk the motor and try to find a replacement?

Any major differences between a series 2 & 3 bottom end worth making sure I get a 3?

Do I HAVE to get headers if I get a non supercharged motor? Also isn't a non supercharged motor not have forged internals or something?

Here's a pic of my comp g and one of the damage





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wow that sucks, sorry to see that.

best to get another used block. from a sc car, if you get a n/a block you will be running a top swap then, will need headers and a tune. due to the high compression block.

Yeah just sucks I already ordered lifters.

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good time to add a nice new cam to go with them new lifters, and for piece of mind pick up a new pan gasket for the new donor engine.

you should already have all the gaskets you'll need for another long block to swap in.

I would buy headers but with what I already bought plus now a bottom end/complete I can't afford it..

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