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OKay well did a compression check.
#1 = 160
#3 = 160
#5 = 160-165
#2 = 145
#4 = 145
Here's where it's weird. #6 = 150 - 175... it was the first cylinder I checked and the weird part was for several seconds the compression gauge went up and then down up and down up and down... after 5+ seconds it started to climb like normal building to the 175.. I only saw it happen once and I cannot replicate it again (I wanted a video) I've tried a dozen times
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K well, got it to the point where I could run it with the valve covers off, they are good. the noise doesnt seem to be coming from them directly. On a Positive side note I Changed the plugs (it needed them) and it has no hesitation starting now and revs up AWESOME, the noise is still apparent under the supercharger area...
When I bought the car the owner said there was oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil. I wasnt sure what he meant and when I looked at the radiator it just looked like dexcool sludge. After draining what coolant was in it (and letting it sit over night..under the car) I noticed tonight there is a fine layer of oil on top of the nasty coolant...
I do not see any discoloration of the oil on the dipstick so I do not see coolant in the oil. I wont know until I drain the old oil to check for any metal and of course I dont want to drain the oil until I can get a better idea of what the hell is going on.
Im 50/50, either drive it and say f it, or strip it down to the pistons and see if i can find any damage (of course to put it back together id have to have a new gasket set)
if you just did the lim gaskets, do the oil change now, dont drive it till you change the oil and the filter. if any coolant went down the lifter valley that oils done for.
some people recommend doing 2 oil changes just to be safe. 1 st one with the cheapest oil you can find, second with oil of your choice.
the only gaskets I have to replace at the moment is the valve covers. I havent torn off anything besides the belt assembly to remove the back cover.. only running it for less than 30seconds at a time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rperry435
you said here that you have it down to the lifters, the lifters are under the lim. if you took the lim off, you just did lim gaskets.
lim= lower intake manifold.
or did you mean you got the valve covers off and can see the rockers and springs?
Yeah my bad, I meant to tore off the valve covers.
How is it even possible for oil to be in my coolant but no coolant in the oil? Im starting to think maybe the LIM maybe bad? possibly causing coolant to get into the lifters?... but i dunno the rockers seem to move like they should.
Im stuck between putting it back together and trying some mystery oil for a hundred or so miles, but im highly doubtful thats going to be the solution.. otherwise I tear it down to the pistons and check for damage..
if you have coolant in your oil your lim gaskets are bad or the upper intake as well if your N/A. change them asap if thats the case.
its almost impossible to get oil in the coolant. major head gasket failure maybe would do it but not likely.
trans can dump tranny fluid in the coolant and also get coolant in the trans, because of the tranny cooler that's built into the radiator.
the ticking sounds. start the engine, valve cover off while its running grab each rocker, make sure its tight feeling. while doing this the noise may stop or seem muffled.
you can also spin each push rod, and tell if its bent by doing so. sometimes they spin easier when the cars running. sometimes no problem when off, just depends on how hard its being pushed on by the cam/lifters and rocker arms.
Yeah I'm a tard i just realized I used a pan that I've drained oil into before. Total moron moment. So forget the oil in coolant comment., even though the previous owner said it I had and still believe it was just dexcool sludge.... There is def no coolant in the oil.
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All the rocker arms are solid as far as up and down. A few will ever so slightly move side to side but the bolts are tight.
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Okay screw it... what all do I need If I'm going to put a new set of lifters in it
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Ls7 or comp cam hmmm
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lifters and any gaskets to get there.
I went with ls7 lifters.. got new alum lim. Sc, injector and coolant orings and valve cover gaskets. Also a New alt/tensioner bracket. old one seemed a bit rough.
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sweet, let us know how it goes.
Well things did not turn out so well I decided since I had cometic head gaskets I just got it to the pistons. Found obvious problem. Not a lifter. #2  pistons are chipped.
Is it logical to replace just those two or junk the motor and try to find a replacement?
Any major differences between a series 2 & 3 bottom end worth making sure I get a 3?
Do I HAVE to get headers if I get a non supercharged motor? Also isn't a non supercharged motor not have forged internals or something?
Here's a pic of my comp g and one of the damage
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/20/sy2asy3y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/20/nasytyvu.jpg
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no traditional "forged" pistons/rods in any stock engine.
Rods shouldnt matter to you.
You'll need headers no matter what short block you have it seems.
wow that sucks, sorry to see that.
best to get another used block. from a sc car, if you get a n/a block you will be running a top swap then, will need headers and a tune. due to the high compression block.
Yeah just sucks I already ordered lifters.
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good time to add a nice new cam to go with them new lifters, and for piece of mind pick up a new pan gasket for the new donor engine.
you should already have all the gaskets you'll need for another long block to swap in.
I would buy headers but with what I already bought plus now a bottom end/complete I can't afford it..
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