Thread: Boost strangely high for my mods?

I pulled out some of the plugs yesterday and they all looked fine and I regapped them to .055 for those that were slightly off maybe +/-.005. And Scott so is tomorrow on? I get off work a little after 4.

Alright how can I get a hold of Paul? Whats his screen name and I'll pm him or something.

Originally Posted by matt5112

Car isn't in boost most of the time.

Thus the correct heat range plug for that engine load hasn't changed.

We're changing the spark plug temp in anticipation of the 0.1% of the time you see boost.

Might misfire on cold startup till it warms up.

I scanned back when I put the new plugs in and never misfired cold start up but I'm assuming you mean for when winter comes around.

Originally Posted by kyle91

I pulled out some of the plugs yesterday and they all looked fine

Originally Posted by fubar569

My stock pullied PAU likes TR6's...runs better on the NGK's than the Autolites. TR6's are there for the anticipated 3.4 swap. I'd like to resolve my burst knock issue first but that's isolated to false knock/tuning at this point.

NGK's were cheaper too. bonus.

Idk where you get your Autolites because mine cost $1 each.

Originally Posted by footballplaya3k

Idk where you get your Autolites because mine cost $1 each.

This.

To hell with NGK's.

Cheapo copper core AL104's are FTW.

Said mods?

What plugs?

Old motors...old technology. Copper plugs, cold t-stats, high octane.

Basic 3.4" setup's...as such the OP's case...a set of AL104's gapped at .050" would be where it's at. NGK's are over $3 a plug here...$1.99 for AL's.

Hey blue I thought I saw on some of your other posts that .055 is where you should gap for a 3.4? Also larger gap=higher chance of knock from hotter spark correct? So would dropping back to .050 be beneficial in fighting even just a small amount of KR?

Nope...I might have said .050-.055...its a common gap size.

Stock is .060"....the smaller the gap, less chance you have of spark blow out.