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  1. #1 Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Donating Users foursixer's Avatar
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    can anyone mention what is the solenoid net to the BOV in the picture is? is there a missing line or should it be plugged? is my MAF to close to the filter that it may cause error reading?http://www.grandprixforums.net/four-...per-46477.html
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  2. #2 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    Thats supposed to have a foam filter covering the entire thing.

    but yes, open to atmosphere.
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  3. #3 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    i guess its not hurting performance then. i thought it may been a vacuum leak. what about the MAF any opinions on that?
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  4. #4 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    engine code is po171.
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  5. #5 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Len.. Thinking about the code last night. It's possible that the maf table and injector tables may be contributing.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  6. #6 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    My 94 SSEi and my 99 GTP both have nothing on them anymore, foam used to be there, got brittle and fell apart, never replaced... both run fine

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  7. #7 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    yes there should be at least 3-4 inches of tubing between the MAF and the filter. but i dont think thats causing the code.

    what MAF and injector tables are you using? the ones on this site for the Lq4 and the 42.5 injectors are wrong, they are way too big. i started out with some files from HPT that people had posted and have started tuning from there. what do your LTFT look like?
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  8. #8 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiggles View Post
    yes there should be at least 3-4 inches of tubing between the MAF and the filter. but i dont think thats causing the code.

    what MAF and injector tables are you using? the ones on this site for the Lq4 and the 42.5 injectors are wrong, they are way too big. i started out with some files from HPT that people had posted and have started tuning from there. what do your LTFT look like?
    bill, can answer those questions. i did not go over the parameter with him but its a question that need looking into.
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  9. #9 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    i have 60lb injectors on the motor
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  10. #10 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Preloaded DHP tables Brian. Straight forward import.

    Len.. might be partially the maf that close to the filter. Being that it came with less coupling, I assumed the previous owner had no issues with it and it fit decently there.
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  11. #11 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Preloaded DHP tables Brian. Straight forward import.

    Len.. might be partially the maf that close to the filter. Being that it came with less coupling, I assumed the previous owner had no issues with it and it fit decently there.
    he probably gave me what he wanted me to have on the HAI!
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  12. #12 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    The only change is the 45* elbow between the TB and the MAF though. The strut was in the way of using a straight shot with that long filter.
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  13. #13 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    ill see what i can come up with
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  14. #14 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    So i met len today, good guy! his car just stalls out at idle at weird times. we started it and let it sit, everything sounds good. it sat for about 15 mins at idle while we talked. then we took it for a spin around the block, again everything was fine. when we got back to his house we let it sit and after a couple mins the engine just shut off, no shudder or misfire, it just cut out like someone turned the key but left it in the on possibly. we started it up, started normal, let it sit for min and it did it again. theres no warning signs it just shuts off.

    we did find that the small piece of vac line at the lim under the snout was cracked but i dont think its enough to cause this and the lean code. and at the time this all happened the SC did sound kinda rombley, like a bad coupler but on the TB side of it.
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  15. #15 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    catback exhaust came this evening. for a used system it's in remarkable condition. brian, thank you for your generousity and making time to help with the gtp.
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  16. #16 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Cracked? The T and small connectors are new.

    Brian, From the start, I believed this to be ICM or crank sensor. It's acting just like one of the two. Likely a crank sensor.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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  17. #17 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    Whats the scan look like? I wouldn't think the ICM or crank sensor would cause a 171 but the stalling seems odd. I would look into the placement of that maf, see if you can notice uneven-ness in what the maf is reading during a scan. I would put the maf next to the tb, then trim some off the 45 elbow on the filter side until things fit. You wouldn't want to trim much off near the maf because the 45 so close might skew readings.
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  18. #18 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoSHO99 View Post
    Whats the scan look like? I wouldn't think the ICM or crank sensor would cause a 171 but the stalling seems odd. I would look into the placement of that maf, see if you can notice uneven-ness in what the maf is reading during a scan. I would put the maf next to the tb, then trim some off the 45 elbow on the filter side until things fit. You wouldn't want to trim much off near the maf because the 45 so close might skew readings.
    we do believe that the maf may be contributing to the problem.
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  19. #19 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
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    we didnt put the scanner on it while i was there.

    ya the small rubber line coming from the T into the lim was cracked. seems too small in diameter to me but it is rubber.

    the coil packs did feel very hot, not as hot as the top of the blower but i couldnt leave my hand on them very long. the IC hoses dont get hot so those arent the problem.

    MAF location is deffinitly messing with the reading, i can hear that in the way the motor idled, kinda like a vac leak but not as bad.

    Bill you used the silicone SC gasket on there, i remember us have trouble with my gaskets and ditched them for the DIY ones. do you think that could be causing a vac leak and making it lean?

    and it doesnt misfire at all or make any noise, it just stops, its weird.
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  20. #20 Re: Red Ripper Engine Code 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I used the one that Agrazela and I had ventured into. The one other time I used this type of material was on a TB and it's still working well to this day. IIRC the issue you and I had with your gaskets wasn't a leak, but that they got dirty when they came out of the first build and were seemingly a pain to clean for the second build. I didn't believe that they caused you a leak, or I would have never used that.

    On the maf and distance from the filter. That could very well be. It should be able to move closer to the TB easily. I did extend the maf wiring with solder and heat shrink. That shouldn't be effecting performance though.

    There are really two things as I see it. One is the lean code. Which is possibly the maf location, leak in that vac line under snout, and very likely a tuning issue as well. The other item is the stalling, which experience says is a crank sensor or ICM. I'd aim to the crank sensor first.
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