gtp s/c rotor swap HELP

**Cyko** · 05-27-2008

Alrigh, so I've got the car apart and I've go the snout off and the rotors loose, but I can't seem to pull them out because of the damn alternator mount in front of it.... HOW IN THE HELL DO I GET THESE THINGS OUT?! Somebody, anybody HELP ME PLEASE. Hit me up in PM, or on AIM: CykoDrivesaWBody... I'm on right now.

**Sabrewings** · 05-27-2008

Talking about the alternator mount on the belt tensioner? It may need to be removed.

**GTPrix** · 05-27-2008

See if you can't pop the coupler off of the drive. If you can, then you should be able to pull the snout straight up, and slide the rotors out. Otherwise you will surely not be able to slide the rotors / snout off together without hitting anything. I have never swapped rotors with the s/c on the car, but I would think this would work.

Otherwise, you could have removed the alt. bracket in the time it took to make this post. Good luck.

**GR8racingfool** · 05-28-2008

There is no way to remove the rotors safely from the housing with out either:

1. removing the supercharger from the motor
2. removing the alternator and the alternator bracket

The only service you can really do to these with out removing other parts that are in the way is changing the supercharger oil, and the coupler (removing the snout)

In your case, the alternator and the bracket do have to be removed before you can move on.

~F~

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

I got the new rotors in, after much frustration and a lotta cleaning up coolant, but the car still makes the rattling/hitting sound when I hit high RPM or when I'm pushing too much at a shift point... is there something I'm overlooking? It's got fresh oil, and two full bottles of it, all the seals seem to be holding just fine (red RTV) and the new rotors looked/felt alright going in... what could my problem be? Could I have flat out spun a bearing in the block or something? The sound is almost definitely coming from the driver's side of the motor, and the s/c housing looked alright, the brief moments I took to look into it while I had the rotors out. Are there supposed to be bearings on the pegs at the backside of the impellers or something? The old set came out looking EXACTLY like the new set before I put it in... Here's what the old ones look like... maybe that'll give some insight?

**Sabrewings** · 05-28-2008

You sure it's coming from the SC and not the front of the engine itself (I'm thinking timing chain damper)?

TDCRacing · 05-28-2008

Originally Posted by Sabrewings

You sure it's coming from the SC and not the front of the engine itself (I'm thinking timing chain damper)?

good point...how many miles on the car???

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

130kish... see, you know how you get the normal chatter/rattle from the s/c assembly at idle? That sound seems to go away whenever this other noise starts... how would I check for timing belt damper?

TDCRacing · 05-28-2008

Originally Posted by Cyko

130kish... see, you know how you get the normal chatter/rattle from the s/c assembly at idle? That sound seems to go away whenever this other noise starts... how would I check for timing belt damper?

just take the timing chain cover off...more complicated than that...maybe someone else can fill u in since i have never done one...milage sonds about right for the dAmpner though

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

That would be great... any takers? Also, how would one go about REPLACING the Dampener, and do we have a price range?

TDCRacing · 05-28-2008

hmmm...couldnt find the dampner...figured it would come with anew chain...but it didnt look like it...i would change the chain and sprockets too if that the problem...the chain set is 120.00

**Sabrewings** · 05-28-2008

Timing chain (if needed):

ZZ Performance

Damper:

ZZ Performance

I don't see any reason to change the sprockets. You have to remove the front cover of the engine to do this stuff. Not too hard, but somewhat involved.

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

I was looking at a writeup on a random webpage, and this looks like it's gonna suck... What're the chances that it's NOT the timing dampener, as the front of the motor's on the OPPOSITE side of the throttle body (which seems to be the source...

I'm wondering if it's something as simple as I torqued it too hard and ovalled out one of the holes that the s/c impeller pegs sit in, and that's moving?

**Sabrewings** · 05-28-2008

Originally Posted by Cyko

I was looking at a writeup on a random webpage, and this looks like it's gonna suck... What're the chances that it's NOT the timing dampener, as the front of the motor's on the OPPOSITE side of the throttle body (which seems to be the source...

I'm wondering if it's something as simple as I torqued it too hard and ovalled out one of the holes that the s/c impeller pegs sit in, and that's moving?

Oh, I thought it was from the passenger side of the engine. Just tossing ideas out there.

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

at this point man, I'll listen to any ideas... I appreciate you guys even posting up some ridiculous ones LoL.... I just don't really feel like pulling apart the front of the engine (when I work full time, the wife works full-time and leaves the second I get home, and have a toddler and identical twin infants) when time is tight and I can't really dedicate even a solid day, let alone the two I was recommended, yanno?

At any rate, I really REALLY appreciate all the input and suggestions from you guys on the forums and I'm sure whenever this problem gets fixed, it'll be a solution from here.

**GR8racingfool** · 05-28-2008

Narrow it down.

Remove your supercharger belt and start the car and see if the sound is still there.

Yes, then its something else motor wise.
NO, and then you have it narrowed down to the supercharger, or its pulleys for the belt.

The clunking could also be a worn out balancer on your crank as well to even a bad idler or tensioner pulley on the accessory belt or even on the supercharger belt.

Your rotors you removed, how they have the shinny spots on the blades, thats the rotors making contact with each other. I have seen them worn down to the metal below before from them knocking around in there. Your case needle bearings, deep inside the case could be worn out, or you switched your bad set of rotors with another bad set. Happens.

But before we start jumping further to replacing expensive parts, check the above carefully, and go from there. Its not hard to pinpoint the sound. Better than finding a small fluid leak, or tracking down an electrical short. Trust me.

~F~

TDCRacing · 05-28-2008

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

Narrow it down.

Trust me.

~F~

What he said....dont throw parts at it like were throwing out ideas...just trying to expand how narrow minded some of us can think when there is a problem that we dont know the cause to

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

Guys, awesome advice... I'll go out and pull the s/c belt off right now and see what it does. Should I expect any sort of noise or response from the engine WITHOUT the S/C belt on the motor that would stand out, so I don't assume it's something wrong?

EDIT:

Still makes the damn noise without the supercharger belt installed.... friggin' WONDERFUL.

**Cyko** · 05-28-2008

I hate to double-post... but being that it sounds like it's still coming from the driver's side, and it only happens above 2k rpm, do you think it might be in the Tranny? I'll go out and check the fliuds and whatnot... but maybe I popped a seal or a gasget or something?

EDIT: I dunno a whole lot about transmissions and whatnot... but I DID check my tranny fluid and I'm WAAY overfull, like, it's fresh fluid (blood red) but full up to the little S bend in the dipstick... could that be interfering with something, and making that sound?

EDIT2: Talked to a mechanic buddy of mine and he listened to the sound, and did one thing I didn't think of... he had me goose the throttle and held his hand on the oil pan.... said he DEFINITELY felt something hitting hard on it when the noise was sounding.... he's pretty sure I threw a rod.... that sucks... *sigh* I'm off to find a new engine...