Thread: Which Mod to do First

Just some friendly advice here. Unless you're very mechanically confident with these engines, I would steer away from tearing into the bottom end. It's extremely difficult to build one back up without spinning a bearing. The bolts are all TTY, and you have to be very exact with your tightening.

Now, that said....if you want to swap out a SC engine, that would be the easiest. If you still want to top swap an engine, and plan on getting a NA engine to do it, get one from the newer GP's, they have the stronger powdered metal rods that will hold up a little better to the abuse. It's a fine line to walk on a NA engine, but you can make good power with them with a larger pulley. It takes much more horsepower to run a 3.0 than it does a 3.8.

Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by archemedes

where can you get both that cheap? When I was looking recently the engines alone were about $800 for one that wasn't burnt (local and national checking)

Arch, there's a lotta junk/salvageyards out where I live in NH that AREN'T on the internet with their inventory, those ones tend to be the cheapest if you can find a gp or a buick or something with an L67 that's been totalled from the rear. Due to the snow and a lotta stupid people, we have our fair share. The best thing to do really is open a phone book and start callin' around. Almost all junk or salvage yards have their stuff accurately inventoried in-house if nothing else, and most will ship for relatively cheap (we ARE still talkin' about a full motor here though), or will hold for pickup. The best place to find stuff is honestly the mom and pop style yards, you just hafta know what you're looking for, and ask the right questions. When I was looking for an L67 to drop in my 96 Lumina, I found some really good deals at the little hole-in-the-wall places around where I was living at the time. Just a thought.

here the yards want same price as new. I also have checked using the yellow pages, and the places that would ship want to double the price to do it (some yards on car-part will ship for $100-$200 though)

i was thinkin bout goin to trannymans to get l67 swap.indianas right next door to me.does anybody know his work?

If you are looking for a decent used L67 talke to ed morad @ Morad Parts Company - 3800 Motors, Transaxles, & Stock Parts. You can also look at ZZP's SS M90 kit, but if you plan on going with an I/C that only works with the SSIC

P.S. I have heard nothing but great things about trannyman

Originally Posted by 04monte

If you are looking for a decent used L67 talke to ed morad @ Morad Parts Company - 3800 Motors, Transaxles, & Stock Parts. You can also look at ZZP's SS M90 kit, but if you plan on going with an I/C that only works with the SSIC

P.S. I have heard nothing but great things about trannyman

yea as i read more on this forum i hear he's the best.just wanna kno w has anybody got work done by him

Originally Posted by Reptile

Just some friendly advice here. Unless you're very mechanically confident with these engines, I would steer away from tearing into the bottom end. It's extremely difficult to build one back up without spinning a bearing. The bolts are all TTY, and you have to be very exact with your tightening.

Now, that said....if you want to swap out a SC engine, that would be the easiest. If you still want to top swap an engine, and plan on getting a NA engine to do it, get one from the newer GP's, they have the stronger powdered metal rods that will hold up a little better to the abuse. It's a fine line to walk on a NA engine, but you can make good power with them with a larger pulley. It takes much more horsepower to run a 3.0 than it does a 3.8.

Just my 2 cents.

what do u mean a larger s'charger pulley?

If you do a top swap the pistons from the NA lower end have a higher compression, you get more power from a pulley size but means if you have no mods you should start with a 4" pulley rather than a 3.8. The higher compression requires a slightly larger pulley as opposed to the lower compression L67/L32 version.