Thread: Which Mod to do First

I have a friend on cardomain and this is a qustion he had:

I HAVE A GPGT AND I WANT TO PUT A S’CHARGER ON IT.MY QUESTION IS WOULD IT EFFECT THE INSTALLATION OF THE S’CHARGER IF I DECIDE TO DO OTHER ENGINE MODS BEFORE THE S/C?

If anybody can help me help him, I will greatly appreciate it. I thought doing the S/C first would be better, that way any future mods done would be to support the S/C. Instead of doing mods then the S/C and having to change the whole setup. I am going to try and get him on here, so that every one can talk with him directly. Until then I will relay any advice. Thanks everyone.

i would agree with your theroy and say put the supercharger on first then go from there.

I'm the friend of BADAZGTP from cardomain.com who this question refers to.I want to do some restorations to the motor too,should I do this before the S'charger?

im not quite sure but pretty much wouldent that just be hoses and gaskets??? and since you are putting a s/c on there mine as well do all the gaskets. and just clean things out. but im no expert. but with out pulling a motor apart i would think that is restoreing.

i meant rering,valve jobs, and bearings and stuff.

yea i heard about that.i was thinkin bout swappin out the engine,sound like i might come out cheaper that way.what do you all think,since i dont do my own work?

yea i heard about that.i was plannin on doin the top end swap,what does it do in the long run?

You might as well just swap out to the L67 (factory s/ced) and avoid a whole lotta headache... you can find one for pretty cheap with low miles at most junkyards.... typically you can find a decent one for $600 or so for motor and tranny.

Originally Posted by Cyko

You might as well just swap out to the L67 (factory s/ced) and avoid a whole lotta headache... you can find one for pretty cheap with low miles at most junkyards.... typically you can find a decent one for $600 or so for motor and tranny.

where can you get both that cheap? When I was looking recently the engines alone were about $800 for one that wasn't burnt (local and national checking)

Originally Posted by archemedes

where can you get both that cheap? When I was looking recently the engines alone were about $800 for one that wasn't burnt (local and national checking)

Arch, there's a lotta junk/salvageyards out where I live in NH that AREN'T on the internet with their inventory, those ones tend to be the cheapest if you can find a gp or a buick or something with an L67 that's been totalled from the rear. Due to the snow and a lotta stupid people, we have our fair share. The best thing to do really is open a phone book and start callin' around. Almost all junk or salvage yards have their stuff accurately inventoried in-house if nothing else, and most will ship for relatively cheap (we ARE still talkin' about a full motor here though), or will hold for pickup. The best place to find stuff is honestly the mom and pop style yards, you just hafta know what you're looking for, and ask the right questions. When I was looking for an L67 to drop in my 96 Lumina, I found some really good deals at the little hole-in-the-wall places around where I was living at the time. Just a thought.

if it doesent have to many miles on it i would think it would be fine, but then again mine as well fresh it up while your building on it. i guess it all depends on how well you want it done. but like i said i really dont know, im just chiming in untill someone more experinced does

i got 85k on it and im tryin to get some power out of this car and im plannin on keepin it for a while too.

yea and mine as well do it right espeically since you plan on keeping it for a while

okay cool thanx.i just learned a little more about my 3800.where would u go to get it scanned?

Just some friendly advice here. Unless you're very mechanically confident with these engines, I would steer away from tearing into the bottom end. It's extremely difficult to build one back up without spinning a bearing. The bolts are all TTY, and you have to be very exact with your tightening.

Now, that said....if you want to swap out a SC engine, that would be the easiest. If you still want to top swap an engine, and plan on getting a NA engine to do it, get one from the newer GP's, they have the stronger powdered metal rods that will hold up a little better to the abuse. It's a fine line to walk on a NA engine, but you can make good power with them with a larger pulley. It takes much more horsepower to run a 3.0 than it does a 3.8.

Just my 2 cents.