Thread: Serious part throttle kr and stalling.

More fuel easier to ignite? Check the battery connection. Clean the connectors if they are badly corroded.

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

More fuel easier to ignite? Check the battery connection. Clean the connectors if they are badly corroded.

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Really? I didn't know more fuel would make it easier to ignite. I haven't checked grounds yet except for the one on the coil bracket but I have checked all connections to battery, alternator, and fuse box all of which are good. My cars idle voltage though is just 12v though and driving around its anywhere from 12.9-13.5 which seems low right? I wonder if the alternator isn't putting out enough juice to the coil packs or something. Battery is only a few months old and I just had it checked a few days ago and it showed good although with the engine off Its producing 11.9v and I've never replaced the alternator.

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I dont know if it would. But running rich I believe burns hotter. So internal cylinder tempK is higher. Hence the easier to burn. Alternator ahould be 12-14ish volts running. Fully charged battery should be around 12.5v if I remember correctly. Just trying to check all your bases. Ill go digging through my manual and see what gm says the alt should be at. Mine is around 12-14 though. Good test is to see if your lights dim while your try rolling all your windows up or something. But I think the alts are pretty sturdy in these cars.

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

I dont know if it would. But running rich I believe burns hotter. So internal cylinder tempK is higher. Hence the easier to burn. Alternator ahould be 12-14ish volts running. Fully charged battery should be around 12.5v if I remember correctly. Just trying to check all your bases. Ill go digging through my manual and see what gm says the alt should be at. Mine is around 12-14 though. Good test is to see if your lights dim while your try rolling all your windows up or something. But I think the alts are pretty sturdy in these cars.

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Lights dim, rpm drop when trying to roll up windows. Even more importantly is the interior lights get a lot brighter when I give it gas compared to when its idling. I'm also running e85 or e54 I should say so I would assume cylinder temps would actually get less hot with more fuel.

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Could be an alt, might be worth just grabbing one from the junkyard and testing it out. I can give you the testing procedure. Dont worry about having a scan tool. Just do the testing with your multi meter. You need a helper though to step on the gas for ya

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

Could be an alt, might be worth just grabbing one from the junkyard and testing it out. I can give you the testing procedure. Dont worry about having a scan tool. Just do the testing with your multi meter. You need a helper though to step on the gas for ya

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

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Dang that seems so confusing lol. Ya I was thinking about getting a junkyard one. Although for 110 I can just get a brand new one and given the alternator is so old i might just do that as a preventative maintenance kind of thing.

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In short, turn all the stuff in. Rev the engine to 2500 rpm. If its between that range alt is good. The one for testing between the bracket and that is to look for a short. GM doesnt like to be straight forward with things. Why I got a Tech 2 and a Windows 98 computer. Now I knows/ can do everything. And by tech 2 I mean chineese knock off 2. Works good surprisingly enough.

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

In short, turn all the stuff in. Rev the engine to 2500 rpm. If its between that range alt is good. The one for testing between the bracket and that is to look for a short. GM doesnt like to be straight forward with things. Why I got a Tech 2 and a Windows 98 computer. Now I knows/ can do everything. And by tech 2 I mean chineese knock off 2. Works good surprisingly enough.

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Really wbat brand did you get? I've heard a lot of good things about the knock off tech 2. Especially the ridiculous price difference compared to the real thing.

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I got it off Ali Express. I just picked one up. I figured the same people probaly make the. And from all my reasearch the chinneese use better components anyway in them. So I just went with the cheapest. They are pretty good to, bit like ebay. Except they will refund some of your money right away if you dont get it. Or its not as advertised. I got one without the case. I can look again to see which seller I got it off. But that was a year or two ago. Might not be able to find it. It was 500 us with shipping. Took a month or something like that to get here

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

I got it off Ali Express. I just picked one up. I figured the same people probaly make the. And from all my reasearch the chinneese use better components anyway in them. So I just went with the cheapest. They are pretty good to, bit like ebay. Except they will refund some of your money right away if you dont get it. Or its not as advertised. I got one without the case. I can look again to see which seller I got it off. But that was a year or two ago. Might not be able to find it. It was 500 us with shipping. Took a month or something like that to get here

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If you don't mind me asking what kind of stuff can you do with it that you couldn't do with a dhp or hp tuner?

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Apart from seeing everything your car is actually doing. You can bleed the brakes using the abs. Turn on every switch in the car with that. Command everything on the car with it. You can also do case relearns and stuff like when you get your crank shaft pulley/ cam sensor replaced. Reset a bunch of sensors. Like if you take out a seat or something for the passenger airbag. Since your supposed to do that. Just pretty much everything. For cars from 1998 or 1999 to 2012 for gm. You can also rewrite pcms and stuff for an entirely new car as well as the body control module. There is just a bunch of thimgs that really help out for diagnostics you can see in there. Also shows you any thrown codes that where ever shown. Unless the battery was unplugged or they were cleared. Comes in really handy. You can reset your fuel trims and stuff with it as well.

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Also shows you everything the computer commamds and what is actually happening. Alot of it you can see in hp tuners, but its nice having that around. You can do data logs and stuff with it as well.

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Originally Posted by GTPpower

What did the parts store say when they tested the alternator?

They said it was good but i don't think the test was accurate because the lady tested it with the battery tester the only difference was she had me turn the car on and she said that's how they tested them. Either way I know its starting to go bad so I already ordered a new one off Amazon even though I don't think that will fix the problem.

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I also think I might have chipped a piston too.. I was checking out the old front plugs today because I decided to put in new wires just for the hell of it and on cylinder 3 plug the metal hook part is bent in slightly. I'm pretty sure I gapped them at .050 and this plug is now .030 but I have yet to see any misfires on cylinder 3 so hopefully its just a flook or a really small piece. My cylinder 1 plug was also almost siezed in the head and it's pretty dark and orangeish on the electrode which is weird because all other 5 plugs looked fantastic. I wonder what the deal is with that..

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UPDATE: IT WAS THE FRICKIN PLUG WIRES! I checked all those wires visually in light and when it was dark, I even swapped a bunch of wires out with other wires and it didn't change anything. But hell everything is back to running like a charm thanks to those duralast gold plug wires. Thanks everyone for your help

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Its always the simple **** that seems to cause problems. Glad to hear everything is running fine

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Originally Posted by w3tbanana

Its always the simple **** that seems to cause problems. Glad to hear everything is running fine

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Ya thanks man! It just sucks I literally replaced all the simple **** besides plug wires because i checked them over, looked for arcing and swapped 3 different wires to cylinder 2 which had by far the most misfires and it didn't change anything but some how some way the wires fixed it. I also installed a brand new a.c. Delco professional alternator when I installed my intercooler and now my system voltage is back up to the low 14s rather then 12.9 so that's awesome. Now I just need to figure out the clunking I'm getting when I first step on the gas or turn to lock

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Motor mounts maybe, or an axle. Is it coming from a particular side?

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