Thread: drivability "issue"

so i got a ? for people real quick on drivability. when i turn the car on "cold start" it has a rough idle, and the low coolant light is on. after a min or so the idle smooths out and after about 4 min the low coolnt light goes out...? anyone haved any ideas? haha sometimes it will idle fine too i dont even know...

my car idles really really bad on a cold start, almost like it has a vacuum leak but it doesnt. never heard of the low coolant light for only a short period..your coolant full?

either way if it doesnt idle bad when warm, it shouldnt be a driveability issue.

If your low coolant light is coming on you have one of two problems... Either you coolant is low and/or needs to be bled properly. OR You coolant sensor in your radiator is clogged with **** from dexcool. Remove, clean well and reinstall...

coolant level is as full as i can get it. let it run open for 5 min with a drilled therm filling till i would not take anymore...and i fouund out today that im throwing a cyl 4 misfire as well as all the egr codes from removing it....would the egr mess the engine up when removed and cause this misfire? i checked and am getting proper spark and injection pulse. engine seems to run ok stutters a bit under heavier throttle and has an idle around 700-800 prm...

ttt?...

Ummm...misfire means one of your spark plugs are bad...PROBABLY #4

Get rid of that damned drilled T-Stat too...and just get a regular 180*...or 160* whatever you want. Is your EGR removed? If so You would need a block off and a deleted code from the PCM for it to run correctly...but I'd change the plugs and T-Stat first

the plugs were replaced with this last rebuild. maybe 6 hours on them?...how could it be fouled this fast?!? and whats wrong with a drilled stat? i personally like the idea...and how bad will the engine run till i can get it tuned out? and i have both side of the egr pluged off.

a drilled thermostat is always a good idea since it allows a little to seep by all the time which keeps cold coolant in the engine more. why would you want to switch to a normal one?

the drilled t-stat is staying.....back to the issue?... what would be some causes for a misfire?...and would removing the egr cause the engine to run rich and run funny?

the EGR is only active during cruising, so that takes that out of the loop unless youre misfiring while cruising.

is it just a random misfire? mine seems to do it at idle all the time, but once i drive it is normal. i also havent changed my plugs in a while.

it did not say random misfire...

plug wires or coils

...why did i type that?

well, the car cruises fine. its just at idle on a cold startup and at wot. at wot it seems to studder a lot and there is no power behind it. and if it were the coils wouldnt the entire 1-4 coil be messed up causing a misfire in two cly instead of just one?

no way the exact thing thats wrong with it is your lacking a spark from the flux capacitor go to autozone ask for fluz capacitor links. problem solved.

well i got a new flux capacitor on order from kalecoauto.com

you pain in the butt! haha i will have money to get new links tommorrow when i get paid.

i put in the new link and there is still a code? does it need to be reset?...or will it continue throwing the code till it is fixed?