They should have designed it so you could use a small cotter pin or something
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11-06-2015
They should have designed it so you could use a small cotter pin or something
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11-06-2015
Fixed it for you(:Originally Posted by BrandonHall10
11-06-2015
Minor detail...You know the pictures tell the story. My words are meaningless.
11-06-2015
I just really envy your eye for detail and patience, is this your first trans build? It cant be, if it was Id be inpressed. Im not scared to do my own trans, I just usually forget steps when I do repairs, but you cant really screw up if you want a nice trans. Wish I lived closer to you, Id definitely be down to learn a lot.Minor detail...
11-06-2015
What's funny is, I used to live in Michigan. In Newaygo, about 3 minutes form Croton dam. If I was still there, I'd just bring the sprocket to work (in Comstock Park) and burn it myself. Now I gotta find someone I trust to do it for me. I hate having people do things for me. Maybe someone will let me borrow their welder for 60 seconds...
This isn't my first build. Definitely won't be the last!
This build actually started as my brother in law's. That's why there's no disassembly pictures. He's currently running a junkyard trans in his Regal, and he wanted to replace that with a mildly upgraded fresh build. He wanted to build it himself under my supervision. Well, after he got it apart, his work picked up and mine slowed down. We both figured it would be better for me to take it over rather than letting it sit blown apart for 4 months...
11-06-2015
Im keeping you in mind for my build, love seeing the work you do
11-06-2015
One step at a time. Let's make sure this one works first.
But thank you.
11-06-2015
Well, Bill mentioned welding the reluctor. Now I have to do it. Found a guy on craigslist that can do it tomorrow. We'll see how that goes...
I'm taking a little different approach though. By tacking the screw heads, that will keep them from backing out. If, for some reason I ever need to separate the reluctor from the sprocket, I'll just cut the weld and back the screw out. Or drill the screw head off. Either way, the sprocket remains un touched.
Two steps forward, one back. Had to excavate the sprocket
While prepping for the weld, I noticed one of the screws was just a hair too long. Ground it down then threw it in my hillbilly lathe to chamfer the thread
A little loctite cause, why not?
That's about all I can do until I get the welded sprocket back, so I just started taking pictures....
My upgraded balls
Newly acquired tools. Thanks Billboost
It's a terrible thing when you outgrow a toolbox. The black one used to hold all my transmission specific tools
Not anymore
Remember me saying I wasn't the one who tore this down? Here's what happens when you go after #435 unprepared. I managed to extricate them without too much trouble though
And just so I don't forget why I'm doing all this
11-07-2015
Bronzemist cars are the fastest............ lolololol!
would you please post part #s and spread sheet of cost once your done. i realize cost may very but would still be great to see on a spreadsheet or whatever.
11-07-2015
Maybe.
Nothing crazy. I don't have any particular number in mind. I guess I'd like to see the near full potential of an M90 setup. Cam, IC and E85 would be a pretty potent setup, I think. Here's my reasoning behind building this trans:
1.) I've seen more than a couple stories of guys spending a lot of dough on power adders, only to blow the trans. Then the car either sits forever, waiting for transmission funds OR it gets parted out. I wanted to fix the weal link first.
2.) I really like building transmissions. I honestly love the mechanics of how they work. It's a good hobby for me.
11-07-2015
Well, I got the sprocket welded
For anyone concerned about that little amount of weld, don't be. It's only purpose is keep the screws from backing out. The screws are what retains the reluctor wheel.
I'm hoping to get the channel plate back on tonight yet, but I'm not banking on it.
Last edited by BrandonHall10; 11-08-2015 at 12:19 AM. Reason: I can't spell
11-07-2015
I was feeling ambitious. Channel plate is back on and torqued
Threw the check balls in
Separator plate on the valve body
Torlon!
Set the valve body on. Called it a night. I'll torque it tomorrow
11-08-2015
Hey Brandon, what's the benefit to the Torlon check balls, couldn't find any info about them??
11-08-2015
The torlon check balls tend to "conform" to any irregularity in the valve body a little better than the hard steel balls, might stop some seepage under pressure.
11-08-2015
This, and to reduce/eliminate separator plate wear. I've been told it's possible for the steel balls to actually beat their way clean through the plate. It would take a long time though. Here's what I found while searching the web:
"Sonnax check balls 10000-08 (.250") are made out of tough, wear-resistant imidized plastic. The Sonnax imidized plastic balls seal better than steel balls because they conform to the separator plate ball seats. Steel check balls are hard and heavy, wearing separator plate ball seats from the repeated high impact of the ball on the seat. Elastomer or rubber check balls seal well. However, the elastomer material wears, reducing the size of the ball. Similar imidized plastic balls have been used on some original equipment late model valve bodies with excellent results. These imidized plastic check balls are not available through the original manufacturer."
Imidized plastic is the generic term for the trademark name Torlon.
11-08-2015
Torqued the screws in for the valve body, but before I did, I checked the torque on all the channel plate bolts. All good.
Oil pump next
Torqued
Harness was next, but before I put it in, I checked all the wires with the DVOM. No breaks
Side cover next. A little goop to hold the seal in place
It's on
I used one of the screws as a handle
Be sure to mark where the studs go before disassembly
Left axle seal was next. Make sure you have the proper tool
That's how she sits until I can fix the threads in the pan
Soooo close
11-08-2015
let me guess your drain threads pulled clean out....
ive already fixed two with 1/2-20 heilicoils though I shoulda probably gone with the more expensive m12 to use the GM engine oil pan drain plug with the captured Oring gasket....would work great with the nice flat boss of the zzp pan.
both of the ones ive seen had some crappy machining of the pan rails....
11-08-2015
Well, they're not completely gone.But useless, nonetheless.
I have no idea what the original thread was. I bought it used knowing the threads were hosed. Previously, it had an M14x1.5 "oversize" plug. I'm hoping there's enough material left in the hole for a standard M14x1.5 HeliCoil. My local hardware actually has generic drain plugs in stock, and a pretty good assortment of sealing washers. The plug I got was the perfect size for one of the Neo magnets I have floating around the garage.
There was some pretty bad machining chatter. Bad enough that I hit it with some emery cloth. Should be good now.
11-08-2015
on the TR I actually went nuts. its 1/2-13 helicoiled, I then got a flanged 1/2" uhl bolt, drilled the end for a neo rod, filled it from the bottom with rtv (get the big ****ing coffee stirrer straws) and shoved it in, I then used a std Teflon washer
McMaster is awesome.... 7/8ths hex so I can use a std o2 socket in a fix, I know, kinda stupid but this is the stupid overthinking that's gonna kill me one day
11-08-2015
what trans pan is that? never seen that type before
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