doing a retro on my 04 grand prix with the d2s 3.0 and test fitting the lens back on and its hitting the projector so would I have to bore the hole a lot bigger to move the projector back
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doing a retro on my 04 grand prix with the d2s 3.0 and test fitting the lens back on and its hitting the projector so would I have to bore the hole a lot bigger to move the projector back
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so I know im going to have to exopy the projector in place now what should I use jb weld or jb kwik and should I black out the low beam reflector heres a pic of my car
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I used JB kwik. If you use the stuff that has to dry for 24 hours it might move and be out of alignment. I like the blacked out look especially on that color car. If you're going to do one half then do the other half too or else it will look weird.
Well bro.....tried to tell ya. easy way is to cut the shroud and mount it to the housing, then trim the black separator.
Check out local home boys thread.(GrandPrix06GT) You don't have to cut as much of the housing with a D2S as a FXR
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...-FX-R-Mini-H-1
wow had a extra housing laying around that was already apart and tried your way so much easier
Here is how it looks from the back,,,with 2 screws at top for temporary support
You can move them a little for horizontal and vertical with a slot for the bolts to slide in.
Pack your stik weld in a little bit at a time to aim.
Once it hardens, more stic weld in the back to hold and fill in gaps then mix up some kwik weld and fill it all in until it looks like smooth plastic......as in one solid piece.
But before any of that happens...this is where the screws are important....you need them to hold the projector in the general area of the housing so you can cut the spot
in the support for clearance. I started with a 2 1/8 Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw once it was centered. Cut the hole and then keep going into the metal fender tri-metal support. Feather your pressure and keep the drill zipping so the teeth don't grab a chunk and twist you. High speed....low pressure .
You can see thru the hole I cut behind it.
This is about as far as you will need. angle from the side.
A needle nose vise grips come in handy for grabbing and twisting stray chunks.
The thing to remember is it might be a good idea to take the drill bit out of the saw.....I didn't because I know how to angle and guide it.
The intersection of the metal behind the plastic support is right where you need to cut.
Get your tools and start cutting.
This is what I ended up with. plenty of room to get the D2S connector in and out. Don't do this trimming until your metal is cut because the the round initial support hole supports and centers the hole saw while you are carving the metal.
This is the dremel I used
And from the front
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Update On Mounting used the jb putty with 5 min set time and hows the aiming ?
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Did you the the whole 25 feet away from the wall thing.. And you kind of went overboard with the putty.. It's best to use just a small amount..enough to hold the projector to aim then once your happy with the position go back and cover the rest.. Asking about the cutoff now.. It's kind of to late and any changes is going to be a pain to do.
yeah went with 25 ft away marked with the halogen bulbs
finally got both projectors in the car for aimimg what do you think ?
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thanks going to put the jb putty in tomorrow night to set them to tired tonight its 1:04 am here lol
got them in place now got some night time shots
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finally got the halos mounted on the shroud very happy almost done with the headlights
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Nice....Good job.
The best part is it looks to be a success for your first time.
Make sure you seal them with enough butyl and black RTV after ..... for the 100%
What bulbs are you using? and what Kelvin?
morimoto d2s bulbs and 55w 6k should be done today with them![]()
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