Here is how it looks from the back,,,with 2 screws at top for temporary support
You can move them a little for horizontal and vertical with a slot for the bolts to slide in.
Pack your stik weld in a little bit at a time to aim.
Once it hardens, more stic weld in the back to hold and fill in gaps then mix up some kwik weld and fill it all in until it looks like smooth plastic......as in one solid piece.
But before any of that happens...this is where the screws are important....you need them to hold the projector in the general area of the housing so you can cut the spot
in the support for clearance. I started with a 2 1/8 Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw once it was centered. Cut the hole and then keep going into the metal fender tri-metal support. Feather your pressure and keep the drill zipping so the teeth don't grab a chunk and twist you. High speed....low pressure .
You can see thru the hole I cut behind it.
This is about as far as you will need. angle from the side.
A needle nose vise grips come in handy for grabbing and twisting stray chunks.
The thing to remember is it might be a good idea to take the drill bit out of the saw.....I didn't because I know how to angle and guide it.
The intersection of the metal behind the plastic support is right where you need to cut.
Get your tools and start cutting.
This is what I ended up with. plenty of room to get the D2S connector in and out. Don't do this trimming until your metal is cut because the the round initial support hole supports and centers the hole saw while you are carving the metal.
This is the dremel I used
And from the front
