Ed...what's the "run and tell that" in yoru title about?
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The S/C block off kit is to cover the opening of the S/C when you remove the snout and the rotors. Basically making an upper intake manifold. I'm going to be doing that with a gutted case.
I can look into LT1/LS1 MAF for it's use in my build.
I'm going to use 60's. E85 is not in my area, and besides I don't feel like I'll need it to make 370-400whp IMHO.
What the hell are the three parts they include in this "blockoff kit"? FYI ZZP sells them for like $50. ZZPerformance - M90 Block Off Plate #07-01-00761
All you need is the aluminum plate that you bolt in place of the snout. I actually will have mine for sale soon since I will be moving to a L36 top swap. I even have an extra M90 case I'll sell with it that you can use to hack up the outlet.
Last edited by txslow6; 03-11-2012 at 12:36 AM.
Like I said in my first post, the first three items on my list were $470 shipped(oiling kit, s/c block off and DP)
No problem. I'd like to get a catted DP, but if I scored a deal on a catless one I'd just cut it up and put it on. As for the oil lines, I'm honestly just being lazy about it, I like the ZZP kit due to not needing to take out the oil pan and punch holes in it. However if I go with the hx35, I'm most likely going to get the stock cummins oiling feed line, and get a overkill return line.If I'm taking the pan off I might as well do it right the first time and do everything I need.
Also I'm planning on running coolant into the turbo via the coolant lines. My buddy told me I can just intercept the line for the heater box, and just have the turbo lines between it. Does anybody else do this? I've been told it not only greatly increases turbo life, but it can help cool it down as well. Thoughts?
Yes. You are referring to a ball bearing turbo. They are much better than oil cooled and I don't see many GP guys run the. The GN guys on the other hand...
Did that HX35 check out? For what you paid for it you can't go wrong... But if I was doing this build, which seems pretty solid otherwise, I would have spec'd out a bigger/better turbo, like a T67 or even a 62-1.
Wut, no LS1 TB setup?
Good luck with the build, Edwardo.
If you opt for the L36 upper evetually I'm actually doing that right now, take a look at my build thread for how to pictures.
Hurry up, get your parts, and start spooling!![]()
Shame too, I had a ported L36 LIM with the injectors welded shut and an L26 metal upper and HV3)
Well that's depressing. I'm thinking I may just go in balls deep and buy a new turbonetics and call it a day since I have the oiling system and DP.
Haha man I was tempted to do so, but I hogged out a S/C case already and I got the block off plate in the mail. I'll check it out anyway, it could be something nice to do down the road should I not be happy with the power output of the build.
Ehh, no worries Bill.
Just bought my turbo yesterday from SinisterDD. A 62-1 that's basically like the one that ZZP offers as an upgrade for their Z7 kit, plus this will have the fittings for water lines to cool the turbo. A/R is .83 and it seems like it'll be great for what I'm looking to do. I still need a Z7 crossover and rear plog. I'm dragging my feet on that because knowing my luck I buy both new and then someone sells them used lol. I'm about to buy the Ic setup I've been thinking about, and I'm kinda confused on a maf setup. Anybody use those Mini-AFC's or the like that ZZP sells? They also seem to sell one that increases the MAF FQ and I'm curious if I can use this instead of using a lt/ls1 maf. I know it says "for very high HP builds", but what would be considered "high hp" Over 500hp? 600hp?
Easy Performance - Fixed Frequency Mini AFC #
The stock MAF is good till 11,000 htz you are going to want a modified MAF or use an external MAF. I run a LT1 MAF and use my AFC to scale the MAF so that I can richen or lean out the car as needed. I have the 2.X which allows me to scale the MAF in various frequency ranges.
Regardless you are going to want something better than stock otherwise you will be limited.
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